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襪子編織入門 - 第2篇
織襪子基本上就是兩種: 從上往下 (小腿往趾頭) 與 Toe Up (從趾頭打起). 這兩種打法都不難打, 完全看個人喜好. 從小腿往下打是比較普遍的打法, 但是我是比較喜歡從趾頭打起因為在打的時候可隨時”試穿”, 這樣打出來的襪子我覺得比較合腳.
從趾頭打起的起針方法有幾種. Short Rows (迴轉? 輪轉? – 忘了中文是啥米. 哪位知道的請出聲 引返編織.), 土耳其起針法, 8字型, 與簡易8字型. 我們就從Short Rows 介紹起. 大家也一起來織織看, 看你喜歡哪種起針法.
為了容易了解起見, 我就用"要打的這雙襪子在腳趾頭部位需要48目(量尺繞腳趾頭部位一圈)”來做示範, 不過你可以很簡單的用其他目數(能被4整除的)來做. 你需要5支雙頭針, 襪線(練習用什麼線都可), 別線與鉤針(線, 針要符合).
首先, 將你[腳趾頭部位需要目數]除以2, 48除以2 = 24目.
用鉤針鉤別線, 比所需的24目多幾針 (30目), 將別線打結後減斷多餘的線. 在別線”突起”部位挑24針, 打一段上針.
再來就要開始 引返編織了.
拿另1支針
第一段: 打23下針, 將線拉過針好像要打上針一樣, 然後將左針剩下的1針滑到右針. 轉面
第二段: 滑第1目, 將線繞回(線把前一目繞了一圈), 打21上針, 線像要打下針一樣繞回前方, 滑最後1目
第三段: 滑第1目, 打下針到最後1目(前一段繞的針前,) 將線拉過針好像要打上針一樣, 繞線, 轉面
第四段: : 滑第1目, 將線繞回(線把前一目繞了一圈), 打上針到最後1目(前一段繞的針前,) 繞線, 轉面
重複第三, 四段直到有8目被繞線(左邊), 中間8目沒繞, 右邊也有8目被繞線.
相片中右邊有6目繞線針. 此時就可以開始打右邊. 腳趾頭部位已完成一半.
注意: 中間沒繞的部位是看你腳趾頭有多寬, 你要寬一點就少作幾段Short Rows, 你要窄一點就多做幾段 Short Rows.
接下來做腳趾頭部位的第二步.
第一段: 將沒繞線的針目打下針到繞線目. 下一目, 挑起繞線與下一個繞線目打2併1(人).
繞下一目(這時下一目共有2繞線), 轉面.
第二段: 滑上邊有2繞線的那目, 打上針到繞線目, 挑起繞線與下一個繞線目打2上併1. 繞下一目(這時下一目共有2繞線), 轉面.
重複這兩段直到所有的繞線目都併完, 這時針上有24目是沒繞線的.
將這24目平分到2支雙頭針上.
解開(不要抽掉)別線, 將第3支雙頭針1目1目的穿過一目一目抽出別線處的圈圈.
然後將這24目均分到2支(第3, 4支)雙頭針上.
如果在打下一段時有”洞洞”的情況, 你可從起針處挑加1目把洞洞”填”平. 但是要記的在下一段把加的針併收掉, 也就是說每支針上應該各有12目.
Size: women's medium (large)
Note: You can adjust this pattern for any size, any gauge. Measure around the ball of your foot. Multiply the number of inches you get by the number of stitches you get per inch when you do a gauge swatch. Then subtract 10% from that total. Fudge your number so it’s divisible by 4. This will make a nice, snug-fitting sock. This pattern is written using 60 stitches around for the sock, with changes for 64 stitches in parentheses.
Gauge: 8st/inch -- I use US size 0 (2mm) needles with sock yarn. Your mileage may vary -- check your gauge!
Start Your Toe
Using a provisional cast-on, cast on 30 (32) stitches (half the total circumference of the sock). I do my provisional cast-on using a crochet chain as follows:
Using waste yarn, crochet a chain that is several chain stitches longer than the number of knit stitches you need. Knit into the center loops of the back side of the chain, 30 (32) stitches. Purl back across stitches.
Row 1: Knit 29 (31) stitches. Move the working yarn as if to purl. Slip the last, unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Turn your work.
Row 2: Slip the first, unworked, stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Purl the next stitch (you will have wrapped that first stitch around its base with the working yarn) and purl across to the last stitch. Move the working yarn as if to knit and slip last stitch. Turn.
Row 3: Slip the first stitch and knit across to the last stitch before the unworked stitch. Wrap and turn.
Row 4: Slip the first stitch and purl across to the stitch before the unworked stitch. Wrap and turn.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until 8 (9) of the toe stitches are wrapped and on left side, 14 (14) stitches are "live" in the middle, and 8 (9) are wrapped and on the right. At this stage, you should be ready to work a right side row. Your toe is half done.
Note: How many stitches you leave unworked in the middle depends on how wide you want your sock toe to be. If you want it a bit wider, do a couple fewer short rows. If you want it a bit narrower, do a couple more short rows.
Now you'll work the second half of the toe:
Row 1: Knit across the 14 live stitches across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. To work this stitch, pick up the wrap and knit it together with the stitch.
Wrap the next stitch (so that it now has two wraps) and turn.
Row 2: Slip the first (double-wrapped) stitch and purl across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap and purl it together with the stitch. Wrap the next stitch and turn.
On subsequent rows you will pick up both wraps and knit or purl them together with the stitch.
Continue until you have worked all the stitches and you once again have 30 (32) "live" stitches.
When all 30 (32) stitches are once again "live," divide those stitches over 2 needles. Unzip your provisional cast-on and divide those 30 (32) stitches over 2 more needles. On your first round, you may want to pick up an extra stitch or two between the "live" stitches and the stitches you've picked up from the cast-on, to close up any holes there might be there. On the next round remember to decrease back down to 15 (16) stitches per needle.
Note: Insert the tip of your needle into the stitch you knit up from the provisional cast-on before you unzip the chain – this will make it much easier to pick up the loops of the stitches. I usually insert my needle through four or five loops at a time, unzip the chain from them, do the next four or five loops, unzip, until I’ve picked them all up. When you unzip your provisional cast-on, you will have one less stitch than the total you picked up and knit. You can create that extra stitch at the end, by picking up the loop between the last stitch created with the provisional cast-on and the first live stitch.
You now have a total of 60 (64) stitches.
Work straight until the foot is about 2 inches shorter than the desired finished length. Place the 30 (32) instep stitches on one needle and put the 30 (32) heel stitches on another needle. work a short row heel on the 30 (32) heel stitches as for the toe, as follows.
Short Row Heel
Row 1: Knit 29 (31) stitches. Move the working yarn as if to purl. Slip the last, unworked stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Turn your work.
Row 2: Slip the first, unworked, stitch from the left needle to the right needle. Purl the next stitch (you will have wrapped that first stitch around its base with the working yarn) and purl across to the last stitch. Move the working yarn as if to knit and slip last stitch. Turn.
Row 3: Slip the first stitch and knit across to the last stitch before the unworked stitch. Wrap and turn.
Row 4: Slip the first stitch and purl across to the stitch before the unworked stitch. Wrap and turn.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until 8 (9) of the heel stitches are wrapped and on left side, 14 (14) stitches are "live" in the middle, and 8 (9) are wrapped and on the right. At this stage, you should be ready to work a right side row. Your heel is half done.
Note: How many stitches you leave unworked in the middle depends on how wide you want your sock heel to be. If you want it a bit wider, do a couple fewer short rows. If you want it a bit narrower, do a couple more short rows.
Now you'll work the second half of the heel:
Row 1: Knit across the 14 live stitches across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. To work this stitch, pick up the wrap and knit it together with the stitch.
Wrap the next stitch (so that it now has two wraps) and turn.
Row 2: Slip the first (double-wrapped) stitch and purl across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap and purl it together with the stitch. Wrap the next stitch and turn.
On subsequent rows you will pick up both wraps and knit or purl them together with the stitch.
Continue until you have worked all the stitches and you once again have 30 (32) "live" stitches.
When you have all stitches live again, divide the stitches as you did for the toe. Once again, on your first round, you may want to pick up an extra stitch or two between the "live" stitches and the stitches you left on a needle for the instep, to close up any holes there might be there. On the next round remember to decrease back down to 15 (16) stitches per needle.
Work until the leg is the desired length to the ribbing, then work in ribbing to the desired finished length.
Note: Individuals with wide feet and/or heavier legs might find it difficult to get socks on and off. I sometimes increase stitches when I start the ribbing for the cuff. If I start out with 15 stitches per needle, I’ll increase to 16 stitches per needle, and do a k4 p4 rib. If I start out with 16 stitches per needle, I’ll increase to 18 stitches per needle, and do a k3 p3 rib. As you can see, it’s not an exact science – you can fudge wherever you feel the need to, to suit the sock’s recipient.
Cast off loosely.
Size: Women's small-medium (I wear a size US 7.5 shoe. The circumference of my foot at the ball is 8.5 inches. My foot length is 9 inches)
Gauge: 8 stitches per inch
Materials: Trekking XXL 104, 5 bamboo DPNs in US size 1 (2.25mm)
Note on Trekking:
Some Trekking yarns will make a beautiful entrelac pattern without any planning or forethought. You can just pick out the yarn and start knitting. To do this, make sure you use a colorway with very long color blocks. Other Trekking yarns with shorter color repeats will create stripped entrelac squares. The other option is to use two solid colors of sock yarn and alternate.
Worked toe-up with a short row toe and a short row heel. I use Wendy's pattern as a reference.
Begin by casting on 32 stitches using a provisional cast-on.
Knit across cast-on stitches. Purl back across.
Begin short row toe:
Row 1: Knit to last stitch, wrap last stitch with yarn in front as if to purl, slip last stitch from left needle to right. Turn work, slip first stitch (the one you just wrapped and slipped) onto right needle.
Row 2: Purl to last stitch, wrap last stitch with yarn in front as if to knit, slip last stitch from left needle to right. Turn work, slip first stitch (the one you just wrapped and slipped) onto right needle. You now have one wrapped stitch on each end of the needle.
Row 3: Knit to stitch before the wrapped stitch (second to last stitch), wrap stitch with yarn in front as if to purl, slip wrapped stitch from left needle to right. Turn work, slip stitch (the one you just wrapped and slipped) onto right needle.
Row 4: Purl to stitch before the wrapped stitch (second to last stitch), wrap stitch with yarn in front as if to knit, slip wrapped stitch from left needle to right. Turn work, slip stitch (the one you just wrapped and slipped) onto right needle. You now have two wrapped stitches on each end.
Continue repeating rows 3 and 4 until you have wrapped 8 stitches on each side and have 16 unwrapped stitches in the middle. Now you will begin picking up the wrapped stitches, beginning with a knit row.
Picking up wrapped stitches and make a toe box:
Row 1: Knit across 16 center stitches to the first wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap, knit the stitch, pass wrap over knitted stitch. Move yarn to front as if to purl. Slip next stitch, turn, slip stitch back to right hand needle, purl to first wrapped stitch.
Row 2: Pick up the wrap, purl the stitch, pass wrap over knitted stitch. Move yarn to front as if to knit. Slip next stitch, turn, slip stitch back to right hand needle, knit to wrapped stitch.
Continue repeating rows 1 and 2 until all wrapped stitches have been worked. You know have a toe box and have just finished a purl row.
Knit 16 stitches onto your needle, pick up a new needle and knit the next 16 stitches onto the new needle.
Unzip the provisional cast on and place these stitches onto two needles, distributed evenly. You may need to pick up one stitch. Knit across these 32 stitches. You now have a total of 64 stitches on your needle.
Knit one row even.
Next row, decrease 22 stitches as follows: k2tog twice. (k1, k2tog) repeat 20 times. [42 stitches on needles]
Knit one row even.
Entrelac Base Triangles:
Each base triangle is worked across a total of 6 base stitches. After each row, turn the work.
Row 1: (RS) K2, turn
Row 2: (WS) Slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl 1, turn
Row 3: (RS) K3, turn
Row 4: (WS) Slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl 2, turn
Row 5: (RS) K4, turn
Row 6: (WS) Slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl 3, turn
Row 7: (RS) K5, turn
Row 8: (WS) Slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl 4, turn
Row 9: (RS) K6
Repeat these 9 rows across the remaining stitches. You will end up with 7 triangles. Distribute triangles across 4 needles. Needles 1 and 2 will be the instep stitches. Each will have 2 triangles. Needles 3 and 4 will be the heel stitches. Needle 3 will have one triangle and needle 4 will have 2 triangles.
Entrelac Squares Set 1
With wrong side facing, pick up 5 stitches along the side of the first triangle, starting at the tip and working down to the base. Purl 1 stitch from the adjacent triangle. Turn. This section may seem very awkward, but it will work out.
Row 1: Knit 6, turn.
Row 2: Purl 5, p2tog, turn.
Continue repeating two rows until all 6 stitches adjacent triangle have been purled. Pick up 5 stitches down the side of the triangle. and repeat Entrelac Square Set 1 until all triangles have been consumed and you have 7 squares.
Entrelac Squares Set 2
With right side facing, pick up 6 stitches along side of entrelac square. Knit one stitch from lefthand needle. Pass the 6th picked up stitch over the just knit stitch. Turn.
Row 1: Purl 6, turn
Row 2: K5, slip 1 stitch from lefthand needle to right, psso. Turn.
Continue repeating two rows until all stitches from left hand square have been consumed.
Continue alternating each set of squares until the sock length is approximately two incehs shorter than your foot length, end by completing Set 2.
Heel
Purl back across 6 stitches.
Pick up 5 stitches purlwise, purl 1 stitch from left needle.
End Triangle:
Row 1: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, k1
Row 2: Slip 1 stitch purlwise, p2
Row 3: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, k3
Row 4: Slip 1 stitch purlwise, p4
Row 5: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, k5
Row 6: Slip 1 stitch purlwise, p6
Row 7: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, k6, k2 tog
Row 8: Slip 1 stitch purlwise, p6, slip 1, p2tog, psso
Repeat across needles 3 and 4. You will have 6 square stitches and 24 end triangle stitches. Put all 30 stitches and on one needle. You will also now have 2 squares on needle 1 and 1 square on needle 2. Now you will begin the short row heel by repeating the process for a short row toe.
After making a short row heel, pick up 5 stitches purlwise down side of adjacent square.
Work Entrelac Squares Set 1 across the three squares on needles 1 and 2. Contine and consume the first 6 stitches off the needle containing the heel stitches. If there is a gap before the 6 stitches, pick up 2 stitches and k2tog them together on row 2 of entrelac square.
Now you are at the heel stitches.
Base triangles:
Row 1: P2tog, p2tog
Row 2: Slip 1 knitwise, k1
Row 3: P3
Row 4: Slip 1 knitwise, k2
Row 5: P4
Row 6: Slip 1 knitwise, k3
Row 7: P5
Row 8: Slip 1 knitwise, k4
Row 9: P6
Repeat base triangles three times.
You have now knit all the heel stitches. Rearrange needles if you need to.
Continue in entrelac until leg is the desired length. Knit a set of end triangles all the way around the leg [56 stitches].
Knit 1 round, increasing 8 stitches evenly.
K2, p2 rib for 1-2 inches. Bind off loosely.
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