绢丝_毛_棉色纺纱的组成调控与性能分析.pdf

第 32 卷 第 2 期2024 年 2 月现代纺织技术Advanced Textile TechnologyVol.32,No.2Feb.2024DOI:10.19398j.att.202305028绢丝毛棉色纺纱的组成调控与性能分析王邓峰1,骆晓蕾1,陈文浩2,刘 琳1(1.浙江理工大学材料科学与工程学院,杭州 310018;2.康赛妮集团有限公司,浙江宁波 315000)摘 要:绢丝质地柔软光滑、手感舒适,在服装与家居纺织品等领域中得到了广泛应用,是中国绢纺产业的重要产品之一;然而,目前绢丝织物生产仍存在高能耗、高排污问题,且产品竞争力不足。为此,采用低污染的色纺技术对绢丝进行精确配色,并引入羊绒、羊毛、棉等纤维组分,制备色泽独特且性能优异的色纺纱,以满足市场多样化的需求。通过调控纱线中纤维组成与配比,探究其对混纺色纱条干、机械性能及色牢度的影响规律。通过引入不同颜色与配比的各类纤维后,纤维间的优势互补提升了绢丝系列产品的机械性能、色牢度,完善了绢丝产品性能的不足,实现了绢丝系列产品的多样化,减少了绢纺业的生产能耗与排污。关键词:绢丝;色纺纱;羊毛;棉纤维;机械性能;色牢度中图分类号:TS146 文献标志码:A 文章编号:1009-265X(2024)02-0050-07收稿日期:20230529 网络出版日期:20230830基金项目:宁波市重大科技任务攻关项目(2021Z033)作者简介:王邓峰(1994),安徽合肥人,博士研究生,主要从事纺织纤维材料的开发与应用研究。通信作者:刘琳,Email:linliu 绢丝又称绢纺纱,是以养蚕、制丝、丝织中产生的疵茧、废丝为原料加工而成的高支数纱线,其质地柔软光滑,手感舒适,且富有光泽感,因此在服装、家居纺织品等领域中得到了广泛应用1。绢丝及其织物具有优异的抗菌性和透气性,因此在医疗、保健用品等方面也有应用。21 世纪以来,中国绢纺业持续稳定发展,产业链不断完善,绢纺企业为适应国内外市场的需求和竞争,积极应对市场和技术变化,加大科技创新和产品升级力度。然而,绢丝织物在生产及产品性能改善上仍存在一些挑战:在生产上,绢纺业是一个耗能和排放量相对较大的产业,生产中产生的废水、废气和固体废弃物等对环境造成了一定的污染2;在产品性能上,绢丝织物较其他纺织品存在更易损坏、遇水易变形等问题,难以适应国际市场高质量、多品种的竞争要求3。色纺技术采用先染后纺的技术,将已染色的不同色纤维或不同色且不同种类的纤维进行混纺成纱,不仅能大大减少印染废水的排放,还可以实现对纱线颜色的精确控制和多样化组合,从而生产出具有独特颜色和效果的纺织品4-5。色纺时,采用不同的纤维原料有利于纤维间实现优势互补,改善织物的外观和手感,实现一定的纺织效果和性能6。如瞿才新等7利用色纺纱技术,将柔软的绢丝与刚性的汉麻相混纺,不仅提升了纱线的可纺性,还提升了织物的保健性和附加值。利用色纺纱技术,纺织企业可以提高产品的附加值和市场竞争力,同时也可以实现节能减排的目的,有利于行业的可持续发展8。针对绢丝产品种类单一、竞争性不够高以及生产过程产生的排污问题,本文以绢、棉、羊毛和羊绒等为原料,采用色纺技术开发不同组分及配比的色纺纱,通过对纱线的微观形貌观察、机械性能分析等研究不同纤维组成对色纺纱性能的影响,并通过调节配比和纺纱参数,设计了一系列具有独特色泽和性能的色纺纱,可为传统绢纺行业发展提供一条新思路,以促进绢丝类产品向系列化、多元化、高品质化、绿色化的方向发展,提高绢纺产品附加值。1 实 验1.1 实验原料绢丝、棉纤维由嘉兴市华益股份有限公司提供,羊绒和羊毛由康赛妮集团有限公司提供,在纺纱前均作染色处理。各纤维的染料配方如表 1 所示。染色过程中,绢丝染色 pH 为 8.0,羊毛与羊绒的染色pH 为5.0,棉的染色 pH 为10.0,所有纤维染色时的浴比均为 1 10。表 1 各纤维染色配方Tab.1 Dyeing formula forvarious fibers试剂绢丝羊毛羊绒棉深色活性染料质量分数%8.08.08.07.0浅色活性染料质量分数%1.01.01.00.5元明粉质量分数%80.080.0助剂-均染剂质量浓度(g L-1)1.02.01.02.01.02.01.02.0助剂-渗透剂质量浓度(g L-1)1.02.01.02.01.02.01.02.01.2 绢丝系列色纺纱的生产工艺绢丝系列色纺纱工艺流程如图 1 所示。在环境湿度不高于 65%、温度约 28 C 条件下,按照表2 所示的混纺比选取不同已作染色处理的纤维喂入设备,纤维先后会进入自动抓棉机、混棉机等设备,历经开清棉、梳棉、并条、粗纱、细纱及并纱等加工工序纺制而成。粗纱机运作时,前罗拉转速为 50 rmin,锭速 350 rmin,隔距 10 cm,后牵伸倍数为 1 倍;细纱机运作时,前罗拉转速为 80 rmin,锭速 800 rmin,罗拉中心距 130 cm,后牵伸倍数1.05 倍。其中粗纱、细纱工序的具体参数如表 3和表 4 所示。图 1 绢丝系列色纺纱的纺纱工艺流程Fig.1 Spinning process flowchart ofsilk series colored spun yarns表 2 绢丝系列色纺纱的配纤表Tab.2 Fiber matching table ofsilk series colored spun yarns试样编号品种颜色比例%绢丝羊绒羊毛棉试样 1纯绢丝灰蓝色100000试样 2绢棉花灰色600040试样 3绢羊绒深绿色851500试样 4绢羊绒棉咸菜色605035试样 5绢羊毛棉深紫红5003020试样 6绢羊毛棉海蓝色500302015第 2 期王邓峰 等:绢丝毛棉色纺纱的组成调控与性能分析表 3 粗纱工序主要工艺参数Tab.3 Main process parameters of rovingprocess样品粗纱干重(g m-3)粗纱号数N牵伸倍数倍粗纱捻度捻 (10 cm)-1后喇叭口间距mm试样 133.36371.5试样 225.07391.5试样 333.36371.5试样 425.07391.5试样 533.36371.5试样 625.06391.5表 4 细纱工序主要工艺参数Tab.4 Main process parameters of spinning process样品纱条干重g (100 m)-1纺纱号数N牵伸倍数倍细纱捻度捻 (10 cm)-1纱线均匀度%试样 10.98102276002.5试样 21.0694195002.5试样 31.9052166003.0试样 40.80125256502.0试样 51.0694195502.0试样 60.98102275502.51.3 性能测试采用 Ultra 55 场发射扫描电子显微镜(SEM,德国卡尔蔡司公司)对纱线进行组成份分析,加速电压为 3 kV。依据国家标准 GBT 2543.22001纺织品 纱线捻度的测定 第二部分:推捻加捻法,利用退捻加捻法在 Y6155 型纱线捻度仪测定绢丝色纺纱的捻度,每组样品测 5 次取平均。根据 GBT 143432008化学纤维 长丝线密度试验方法测定纱线线密度。根据 GBT 39161997纺织品 卷装纱 单根纱线断裂强力和断裂伸长率的测定,采用YG(B)021H 型纱线强度测试仪对所制得的六种试样分别进行了拉伸性能测试,每一试样测试 5 组。根据标准 FZT 010862020纺织品纱线毛羽测定方法 投影计数法,利用投影计数法测试方法测定所得纱线的毛羽。根据标准 GBT 3292.12008纺织品纱线条干不匀试验方法第1 部分:电容法,在 YG137 型条干均匀度测试仪上测试纱线条干均匀度。根据标准 GBT 39212008纺织品 色牢度试验 耐皂洗色牢度、GBT 39202008纺织品 色牢度试验 耐摩擦色牢度及 GBT 8427纺织品 色牢度试验 耐人造光色牢度对所得纱线进行耐湿、耐摩擦、耐光色牢度测试分析。上述所有测试均在标准温湿度环境下进行。2 结果与讨论2.1 绢丝系列色纺纱的组成分析所得绢丝色纺纱的 SEM 图及其实物照片如图 2图 3 所示。绢丝原料的本质是蚕丝纤维,纤维表面光滑,具有三角形的横截面形态,纯绢丝的微观形貌如图 2(a)所示。这种结构能赋予纱线和织物较为光亮、丝滑的质感。羊绒表面均由鳞片结构,由于羊绒较细且没有髓质层,因此其表面的鳞片间距较宽,以非叠加式单层环绕纤维生长,相比之下,羊毛较羊绒更粗,鳞片结构更明显9。不同于蚕丝和羊绒,成熟的棉纤维截面为腰圆形态,纵向具有天然转曲形态,如图 2(c)中标注所示。从图 2 中的纤维分布可以看到,绢丝系列色纺纱中的纤维分布和预设配纤情况基本一致,图 3 表明所得色纺纱色泽分布较均匀。2.2 绢丝系列色纺纱的条干分析毛羽与条干不匀率是影响纱线条干外观和风格的重要质量指标,直接影响到织造效率和织物风格。绢丝系列色纺纱规格信息表见表 5,从表 5 中数据可知,所有绢丝色纺纱的条干不匀率范围保持在10.3%12.6%,表明在上述工艺设计下,纱线能保25现代纺织技术第 32 卷持较为均匀的条干。试样 1 由纯绢丝构成,捻度为620 捻(10 cm),绢丝纤维相对较长,三角形的截面形态有利于纤维之间的抱合,因此所得纱线毛羽较少。在与棉纤维混纺后,试样 2 中棉纤维配比占40%,由于棉纤维为较短的纤维,因此相对于纯绢丝纱的毛羽要明显增加,达到 16.7 根m10。与 15%羊绒混纺后,通过牵伸与加捻操作控制纱线线密度为 33.33 tex,是所制纱线中最细的纱线。尽管羊绒也为短纤维,但由于羊绒纤维较为柔软,有利于与绢丝纤维抱合,且含量相对试样 2 中棉含量少,因此试样 3 的毛羽有所降低。在进行三组分混合后,试样 4中棉纤维占比较羊绒高,但在高加捻条件下,纱线的毛羽减少至 9.7 根m。试样 5、6 由绢丝、羊毛及棉混纺得到,配比一致,但试样 6 被捻程度更高,纱线更细,因此毛羽较 5 更少。总体来看,所得 6 中绢丝色纺纱的毛羽由于短纤维的混纺,毛羽均有所提升。图 2 绢丝系列色纺纱的微观组成 SEM 图Fig.2 SEM images of the microstructure ofsilk series colored spun yarns图 3 绢丝系列色纺纱的实物数码照片Fig.3 Digital photos of silk series colored spun yarns表 5 绢丝系列色纺纱规格信息表Tab.5 Specificationinformation of silk series colored spun yarns试样编号颜色捻度捻 (10 cm)-1线密度tex毛羽(根 m-1)条干不均%试样 1灰蓝62016.675.612.1试样 2花灰52017.3916.712.6试样 3深绿58033.3310.011.2试样 4咸菜色66618.189.710.3试样 5深紫红55513.3311.311.8试样 6海蓝色56716.678.912.035第 2 期王邓峰 等:绢丝毛棉色纺纱的组成调控与性能分析2.3 绢丝系列色纺纱的机械性能所得绢丝系列色纺纱的断裂强度及断裂伸长结果见表 6。纯绢丝纱的断裂强度为 20.69 cNtex,断裂伸长为 7.81%。与 40%棉纤维混纺后,捻度为520 捻(10 cm),试样 2 的力学强度及断裂伸长均有所下降。这是因为,一方面,试样 2 较试样 1 捻度显著下降,纤维之间的抱合程度不强,因而纱线的断裂强度不及试样 1;另一方面,棉纤维属于纤维素纤维,伸展性能不及蛋白类纤维,因而断裂后的断裂伸长率也有所下降。试样 3 中为 85%的绢丝与 15%的羊毛混纺,捻度为 580 捻(10 cm),其断裂强度较试样1 显著下降至12.54 cNtex,断裂伸长则提升至10.04%。羊绒纤维细而软,表面具有类环状鳞片结构并具有一定程度的卷曲。相比于纤维素纤维,羊绒纤维具有低强高伸的特点,因而试样 3 尽管断裂强度有所下降,但断裂伸长则变大。3 组分混纺后,试样 4、5、6 的的断裂强度较纯绢丝的试样 1 和双组分的试样 2 与试样 3 均有所提升,且断裂伸长率较除羊绒混纺的试样 3 外高,意味着纤维之间确实实现了优势互补。棉纤维机械性能优异,为增强纱线强度做出了贡献,而毛纤维的存在不仅增强了纤维之间的抱合能力,也有助于纱线整体断裂伸长率的提升。2.4 绢丝系列色纺纱的色牢度分析表 7表 8 分别为单组份纺织品测得的色牢度和色纺纱织造得到的纺织品的色牢度测试结果。根据表 7 可知,棉织物的色牢度表现最佳,绢丝次之,而羊毛与羊绒的色牢度表现相对最差。在加工成色纺纱后,几种样品的色牢度也受到了纱线中纤维的种类与配比影响。耐湿色牢度中,试样 5 与 6 的色牢度相对较高,而其他样品色牢度处于同一水平,且均未低于 4 级,说明洗涤条件对三种纤维的色牢度影响均不大。光照射下,6 种纱线的色牢度则均显著下降,均保持在 3 级或 34 级的水平,较其他条件测试的色牢度下降更为显著,表明光照射对色牢度的影响均较大11。对比试样 1,试样 2 的耐干湿摩擦色牢度较试样 1 均有显著提升,说明在绢丝中加入棉纤维会增加纱线的耐干湿摩擦色牢度。试样 3 的耐干湿摩擦色牢度均是 34 级,不及试样1,表明羊绒对纱线的耐干湿摩擦色牢度不及绢丝,因此添加羊绒会使得纱线的色牢度略有下降。从环境条件看,光辐射是对纱线色牢度下降影响最大;从组成看,棉纤维的存在有助于提升纱线的色泽保持能力,而羊绒的存在或会使得纤维的色泽保持能力略有下降。表 6 绢丝系列色纺纱的断裂强度及断裂伸长率Tab.6 Specific strength and breaking elongation ofsilk series colored spun yarns样品试样 1试样 2试样 3试样 4试样 5试样 6断裂强度(cN tex-1)20.6917.8512.5422.9523.3320.33断裂伸长率%7.817.5410.049.089.1010.11表 7 染色单纤维的色牢度Tab.7 Color fastness of dyed single fibers原料水洗色牢度变色第一衬布沾色第二衬布沾色耐光色牢度汗渍色牢度绢丝4443445羊毛434343445羊绒434343445棉4-54453445表 8 绢丝系列色纺纱的色牢度Tab.8 Color fastness ofsilk series colored spun yarns试样编号水洗色牢度耐光色牢度耐干摩擦色牢度耐湿摩擦色牢度试样 143434试样 24354试样 34343434试样 44343试样 5534434试样 64534345现代纺织技术第 32 卷3 结 语为解决绢丝在生产上的高能耗与高排污问题及其在产品性能不足问题,本文结合绿色环保的色纺技术实现对纱线的精确均匀配色,并将绢丝与羊绒、羊毛、棉纤维引入纱线中,实现纤维之间的优势互补,以完善绢丝产品的性能,实现绢丝系列产品的多样化。通过调控组分与工艺参数,研究发现纱线中短纤维含量提升会增加纱线条干中的毛羽,而在一定程度上提升加捻程度,不仅能减少绢丝色纺纱线条干中的毛羽,还能提升纱线的机械性能。在机械性能方面,机械性能优异的棉纤维有助于增强色纺纱的机械强度,而毛纤维有助于纤维之间抱合能力的提升,有利于提升色纺纱的断裂伸长率。在色牢度方面,绢丝与羊绒、羊毛作为蛋白类纤维,对色泽的保持能力不及棉纤维,因而含有棉纤维的绢丝混纺色纱在不同环境下对色泽的保持能力要优于其他纱线。参考文献:1 刘博,丛洪莲,吴光军.绢丝羊绒混纺全成形针织服装的设计和开发J.丝绸,2020,57(9):114-119.LIU Bo,CONG Honglian,WU Guangjun.Design and development of fully-formed garment based on silkcashmere blend yarnJ.Journal of 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Textile Leader,2020(4):44-46.7 瞿才新,周红涛,宋秋霞.汉麻绢丝色纺纱的开发J.棉纺织技术,2013,41(1):47-49.QU Caixin,ZHOU Hongtao,SONG Qiuxia.Development ofhemp spun silk colored spun yarn J.Cotton Textile Technology,2013,41(1):47-49.8 潘真祯,肖岚,汪军.基于 SCP 范式的中国色纺纱产业分析J.纺织导报,2022(6):62-66.PAN Zhenzheng,XIAO Lan,WANG Jun.SCP paradigm analysis on Chinas colored spun yarn industryJ.China Textile Leader,2022(6):62-66.9 曾滔.再生丝毛混纺纱线与织物工艺研究及产品开发D.杭州:浙江理工大学,2018:1-68.ZENG Tao.Research and Product Development of Regenerated Silk Wool Blende Yarn and Fabric D.Hangzhou:Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,2018:1-68.10 蔡文杰,王波.不同配棉和捻系数对牛仔面料风格的影响J.染整技术,2023,45(1):47-49.CAI Wenjie,WANG Bo.Influence of different cotton assorting and twist factor on the style of denim fabricJ.Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal,2023,45(1):47-49.11 章梅,周微波,章淑娟,等.涤纶分散染料转移印花织物的耐光稳定性及其提升工艺J.现代纺织技术,2023,31(4):208-216.ZHANG Mei,ZHOU Weibo,ZHANG Shunjuan,et al.Lightstability of the polyester disperse dye transfer printing fabric and its promotion processJ.Advanced Textile Technology,2023,31(4):208-216.55第 2 期王邓峰 等:绢丝毛棉色纺纱的组成调控与性能分析Composition control and performance of silkwoolcotton colored spun yarnWANG Dengfeng1,LUO Xiaolei1,CHEN Wenhao2,LIU Lin1(1.School of Materials Science&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;2.Consinee Group Co.,Ltd.Ningbo 315000,China)Abstract:Silk due to its soft and smooth texture and comfortable touch has been widely used in fields such as clothing and home textiles and the silk industry is one of China s important textile industries.However there are still some challenges in the production and performance of silk fabrics.In terms of production the silk industry is an energy-intensive and relatively high-emission industry and the waste water produced during its production process causes certain pollution to the environment so environmental protection measures need to be strengthened.In terms of products silk fabrics are prone to damage and deformation when exposed to water making it difficult to meet the high-quality and diverse competition requirements of the international market.In terms of color spinning technology the technique of dyeing before spinning is adopted which blends differently colored fibers or fibers of different colors and types into yarn.This not only greatly reduces the discharge of dyeing wastewater but also enables precise control of yarn color and diverse combinations thereby producing textiles with unique colors and effects.Therefore herein cotton cashmere and wool fibers were selected as raw materials and combined with color spinning technology to address the high pollution and inadequate product performance issues in the silk industry.We designed a series of color spinning yarns with unique luster and performance by adjusting the fiber composition and ratio in the color spinning process.We investigated the influence of different fiber compositions on the performance of color spinning yarns through the observation of the microstructure of fibers in the yarn and the analysis of mechanical properties.Color spinning technology not only achieves complementary advantages between fiber components but also overcomes the dyeing differences caused by different raw material structures thereby improving product quality and added value.It provides a new approach for the development of the traditional silk spinning industry promoting the development of silk products towards serialization diversification high quality and environmental friendliness.Firstly through SEM analysis of the distribution and composition of the yarn the fiber distribution in the silk-colored yarn is basically consistent with the preset blending situation and the resulting mixed color yarn has a uniform color distribution.Then through the analysis of yarn hairiness and unevenness of the dryness the influence of fiber composition and forming process on the appearance and style of the yarn was studied.It is found that the addition of short fibers such as cotton and wool will increase the yarn hairiness and unevenness of the dryness but the phenomenon of hairiness and unevenness of the dryness can be reduced by increasing the twisting degree.Through mechanical performance analysis it is found that blending cotton fibers with excellent mechanical strength in silk contributes to enhancing the mechanical strength of dyed spinning while adding wool fibers helps improve the cohesion between fibers thereby promoting the elongation at break of dyed spinning.In addition the twisting process can effectively improve the overall mechanical performance of dyed spinning.In terms of color fastness silk cashmere and wool are all protein fibers which are less prone to dyeing and prone to fading compared to plant fibers.Therefore the color fastness under different environmental conditions was studied and analyzed.From the environmental conditions light radiation has the greatest impact on the color fastness of yarns from the composition the presence of cotton fibers helps to improve the color retention ability of yarns while the presence of cashmere may slightly decrease the color retention ability of fibers.This study provides a new approach for the development of the traditional silk spinning industry which can achieve the direction of serialization diversification and high quality of silk products.At the same time colored spun yarn is a blended yarn among different types of dyed fibers which can improve the performance deficiencies of silk products and achieve diversification of silk series products.Furthermore its productive process has significant energy-saving and emission-reducing advantages.Keywords:silk yarn colored spun yarn wool cotton fiber mechanical properties color fastness65现代纺织技术第 32 卷