服装专业外语第三章.doc

Chapter 3
Part a

　　What does a Designer Do （服装设计师做什么）

What exactly does a designer do?（服装设计师究竟做什么工作呢?） No two designers will answer this question in the same way because each designer does so many different things.（因为每个设计师做很多不同的事情,所以没有两个服装设计师会回答一样。） As a rule, designers work for a wholesale apparel house or manufacturer, and their duties include a range of interrelated jobs. （一般来说,服装设计师为某个大的服装公司或者服装厂工作，因此他们的职责包括广泛的相关工作。）
wholesale [英] [’həʊl,seil] adj.& adv. 1.批发(的)2.大规模(的) n. 批发
interrelated [英] [,intəri’leitid] 相互影响、相互联系
　　Researching Colors and Fabrics（研究色彩和织物）
The first step in creating a new line is to research fashion and consumer trends. （新产品设计的第一步就是研究流行时尚及消费趋势。）Generally, the designer will begin by investigating color trends. （一般来说，服装设计师从调查色彩流行趋势开始(着手)。）Information on color trends for the coming season usually comes from fiber companies and professional color services like Pat Tunskey. （有关下一季的色彩流行趋势的信息，通常来自于纤维公司和像Pat Tunskey这样的专业色彩服务公司。）On the basis of these general predictions, the designer selects the colors he or she feels will make the line unique and salable. （基于这些一般的预测，服装设计师选用他或她感觉会使产品有特色而且畅销的颜色。）Once the color story is set, the designer begins to review textile lines. （一旦选好了色彩，服装设计师开始重新选择面料（纺织品）。）
Line [lain] n. 边线；轮廓线；形体；形状-----引申为服装产品
Consumer [英] [kən’sju:mə] n. 1. 消费者, 顾客,用户
investigate [英] [in’vestiɡeit] vt.  调查; 审查
prediction [英] [pri’dikʃən] 预测、预言
unique [英] [ju:’ni:k] adj. 1.独一无二的,仅有的2.特有的,少见的3.独特的；罕见的
salable [英] [’seiləbəl] adj.畅销的
review [英] [ri’vju:] vt.  复查；重新考虑; 检验；审核
　　Creating Styles（款式设计）
Once fabrics have been selected, the designer begins to create styles for the line. （一旦选定面料，服装设计师开始进行产品款式的设计。）The refabrications and versions of good bodies from the last season may provide the basic styles or staples of the new line. （上一季销量较好的款式改用其他的面料可能成为新产品的基本款式或服装主要的组成部分。）Then the designer begins styling the new garments. （然后，服装设计师开始了新的服装款式设计(造型)。）
style [英] [stail] n. 风格； （指服装）流行式样 vt. 设计(服装等)，按新款式设计(或制作)
refabrication [英] [,rifæbri’keiʃən] n. 构造
version [英] [’və:ʃən] n. 版本, 形式
staple [英] [’steipl] n. 主要部份；重要内容
　　Aesthetic Appeal (美感 )
The garment should be attractive to the specific customer for whom it was created. （服装应该针对特定的顾客进行设计，这样才能吸引他们购买。）Customers' aesthetic requirements differ with every size, price and age range, but everyone is looking for a stylish garment.（虽然顾客的审美要求因尺寸型号、价格和年龄而不同, 但每个人都会寻找时髦的服装。）Therefore, the fabric in every garment should be attractive and fashionable in print and color. [1]（因此，每件服装面料的花型和色彩都应当漂亮和时尚的。）Most customers touch a garment immediately after being visually attracted to it, so the hand (feel) of the fabric is as important as its appearance.（大多数顾客被一件衣服吸引之后都会立刻用手去触摸它，因此，服装面料的手感和其外观一样重要。）
aesthetic [英] [i:s’θetik] adj. 审美的
attractive [英] [ə’træktiv] adj. 1. 性感的；妩媚的；英俊的；诱人的；漂亮的
visually [英] [’viʒʊəli] adv. 1. 视觉上;外表上2. 看得见地;形象化地;直观地
hand (feel) 手感
appearance [英] [ə’piərəns] 外观

　　Price(价格)
The garment should obviously be good value for its price.（服装显而易见的价值是它的价格。）If the price is too high, the customer will probably not try it on, even if she likes the style. （如果服装价格太高, 即使她喜欢这种款式，顾客也不会去试穿。）When the designer styles a garment, he or she must consider the price of every detail from the initial cost of the fabric to trims and construction methods. （服装设计师设计服装时必须考虑每个细节的价格，从最初的面料成本到配饰成本和服装生产成本。）Ultimately, the garment's success or failure may depend on cost. （最终，服装的成败可能取决于成本。）
detail [英] [’di:teil] 细节
initial [英] [i’niʃəl] 最初的
ultimately [英] [’ʌltəmitli] 最终地
　　Timing(及时性)
A design should both fit into a general fashion trend and satisfy the customer's desire to be unique and fashionable. （服装设计既要适合一般的时装流行趋势又要满足顾客对服装具有特色和时尚的要求。）Again, how these requirements are met varies greatly for different customers. （其次,如何满足不同顾客的这些差异很大的需求。）During the same period, the young junior customer may be buying authentic work overalls, the young missy (contemporary) customer may be looking for copies of European ready-to-wear, and the designer customer may be looking at Paris couture. [2] （在同一时期，青少年顾客很可能会买正统的工作罩衣，年轻的女士可能会买欧洲成衣的仿制品，而高价位时装的消费者则会关注巴黎时装。）Many excellent products have hit the sale racks because they were too early or too late for the fashion taste of the moment. [3] （许多优秀的产品之所以没有热卖，主要因为他们的品位超前或落后于当前的时尚潮流。）The designer must be aware of general fashion trends and, more importantly, the trends that are influencing his or her particular market. （服装设计师必须意识到一般的时尚潮流，而且更重要的是，必须意识到这个时尚潮流会影响他或她的特定市场。）
customer [英] [’kʌstəmə] 顾客
vary for [英] [’vɛəri] 变化
junior [英] [’dʒu:njə] 青少年
authentic [英] [ɔ:’θentik] 真正的
work overalls [英] [’əuvərɔ:l] 工装
missy [英] [’misi:] 小姐
contemporary [英] [kən’tempərəri] 现代的
European [英] [,jʊərə’pi:ən] 欧洲
couture [英] [ku’t ju:r]  服装设计(师)或其服装店
hit [英] [hit] .碰上
rack [英] [ræk]刑架, 拷问台, （旧时的）拉肢刑具. 支架；架子
　　Fit(合体)
Once the customer has selected a garment to try on, the chance of selling that garment improves.（一旦顾客选择了一件衣服去试穿，那么卖出那件衣服的机会就会大有希望。）Now the way the garment looks on the customer's figure is crucial.（现在，通过服装来体现顾客的身材是至关重要的。）The customer wants the garment to fit and make her look taller and more slender. （顾客想要合适的衣服,使她看起来更高、更苗条。）If the designer has created a garment to fit a slender, tall model, many average customers with figure problems will be disappointed when they try it on.（如果服装设计师设计出一套非常苗条的、高挑的服装款式，那么许多有体型缺陷的普通顾客在试穿时会感到失望。）The garment that conceals figure problems, flatters the face and body, fits well, and is pleasingly proportioned will be a success and success means a garment that sells! [4]（一件衣服如果能够掩盖身材缺陷，突出脸部和身体的优点，合身，并且具有悦目的比例，就是一种成功的设计。而所谓成功的设计就意味着服装会卖得好！）
try on 试穿
crucial [英] [’kru:ʃəl] 至关重要的
figure [英] [’fiɡə] 轮廓, 人影, 身材, 体态, 风姿 数字
cut the garment according to the figure量体裁衣
slender [英] [’slendə] 苗条的
average [英] [’ævəridʒ] adj. 1. 平均的2. 平常的, 普通的, 一般的
conceal [英] [kən’si:l] vt. 隐藏; 隐瞒, 遮住
flatter [英] [’flætə] vt. 1.奉承2. 给以愉快的感觉3. 使显得更漂亮；使胜过本人

Care and Durability(保养和耐用 )
Most customers will examine a garment to see if it is well made.（大多数顾客将挑选衣服，主要是看它的做工好不好。）Easy care, particularly wash-and-wear, is an important part of making a satisfactory garment, and a satisfactory garment is one that performs well and looks beautiful. （易保养,特别是免熨烫,是一件令人满意的服装的重要之处,并且还要外观出色而且看起来很漂亮。） If the designer chooses a wash-and-wear fabric but lines the garment with a fabric that must be dry-cleaned, this defeats the fabric's purpose. [5]（如果设计师为一件衣服选择了免烫面料，却用一种必须干洗的面料做里衬，这样就破坏了使用该面料的初衷。）Many chain stores recognize the importance of durability. （许多服装连锁店认识到服装耐用性的重要。）A chain store may give the manufacturer specific instructions about how the garment should stand up to washing and ironing. （服装连锁店可以要求制造商注明衣服如何妥善洗烫。）High-priced garments usually require dry-cleaning because they are made of delicate fabrics and there is little customer resistance to the maintenance cost.（高价位的服装由精致的织物做成，因此通常需要干洗，而且消费者也愿意在衣服保养方面花钱。）The successful performance of garments also depends on the designer's care in selecting trims and findings.（令人满意的服装服用性能还取决于服装设计师在选择配饰方面的用心。）
durability [英] [,djʊrə’biliti] 耐用性、耐穿性
lines 里子、里衬
instruction [英] [in’strʌkʃən] 1. 命令, 指示2. 讲授, 指导3. 使用说明书, 操作指南
delicate [英] [’delikit] adj. 精致的、精细的
resistance [英] [ri’zistəns] 抵抗, 反抗、反对
maintenance [英] [’meintinəns]  维持; 维护; 保养; 维修
performance [英] [pə’fɔ:məns] 服用性能
trims and findings 配件、配饰、装饰、辅料
　　Developing a Line（产品开发）
The techniques used to develop a line vary.（服装产品开发的技术多种多样。）A designer must be able to draw a working sketch or croquis of the garment planned.（服装设计师必须能够绘制服装款式图或者服装效果图。）This working sketch may be shown to the manufacturer during a discussion about which garments are to be made up.（[在产品开发的讨论中]服装款式图也许能够向生产者说明哪个衣片需要缝合。）The working sketch is given to the assistant as a guide in making the pattern and shows the placement of construction lines.（作为制版的说明，服装款式图会发给设计师助手并标示出服装结构线的位置。）The silhouette or shape of the garment is important because it tells the patternmaker how much fullness should be in a skirt, sleeve or bodice.（服装的轮廓线或外形很重要，因为它能使样板师知道在裙子、袖子或者上衣片等地方的宽松度是多少。）A working sketch is placed as identification on each pattern.（服装款式图用作每个样板的识别。）It is also used on the cost sheet.（服装款式图通常还用于成本核算。）
working sketch 款式图
croquis [英] [’krəuki:] n.〈法〉草图,略图;(绘画的)速写;素描
make up 制作、缝制
assistant [英] [ə’sistənt] 助手
pattern [英] [’pætən] 样板、纸样
construction lines [英] [kən’strʌkʃən] 结构线
silhouette [英] [，silu:’et] n. 1. 轮廓2. （人的）体形；（事物的）形状
fullness 宽松度、松量
skirt [英] [skə:t] 裙子
sleeve [英] [sli:v] 袖子
bodice [英] [’bɔdis] 上衣、大身、妇女紧身胸衣
identification [英] [ai，dentifi’keiʃən] n. 1. 鉴定,辨认2. 确认，确定；

　　 Merchandise试销
After all styles are finished, usually right before the season and before the styles are shown, the line is appraised and merchandised.（当所有款式都完成后，通常在该季节之前，在这些款式还没有公开之前，会对它们进行鉴定(评价)和试销。）This is also called weeding out the potentially unsuccessful styles.（这种情况也被称作淘汰潜在的不合格式样。）Many of the numbers may be discarded.（许多的款式可能要被淘汰。）If they cannot be fitted into one of the price ranges feature by the house, even some of the most attractive numbers may be discarded.（如果它们不符合设计公司对价格的要求[范围特征]，那么甚至是一些有吸引力的款式也可能要被淘汰。）
How a line is merchandised depends on the policy of the house.（什么样的款式可以试销取决于设计公司的策略。）The designer may show the line to the company head, who will review each piece.（设计师可以让公司的领导审查每一件款式。）The company head decides whether the consumer will be willing to pay the price that will make the garment a profitable item. （设计公司领导决定销售价格，判断这个价格是否消费者愿意支付，从而使销售服装盈利。）
Merchandise [英] [’mə:tʃəndaiz] n. 商品, 货物vt. 1. 经营2.推销；销售
appraise [英] [ə’preiz] vt. 1. 估价；估计；估量2. 评价
weeding out 清除、淘汰
potentially [英] [pə’tenʃəli] 潜在地
discard [英] [dis’kɑ:d] vt.  丢弃, 抛弃
item [英] [’aitəm] 项目、商品
　　Pattern Development打板
The designer's involvement in the development of the production pattern varies greatly from company to company. （在产品纸样开发过程中，设计师的职责因公司而异。）At one extreme, the designer may never see the final product because all production procedures are separate from the design room. （一个极端是，设计师连最终的产品都可能无法见到，因为所有的生产过程都在外进行；）At the other extreme, the designer may be responsible for making the production pattern and supervising the grading and marker making. （另一个极端是，设计师不仅需要负责制作生产纸样，还要监管放码和排料图制作过程。）The latter system is prevalent in small firms.（后者常见于小公司。）
involvement [英] [in’vɔlvmənt] 参与
procedure [英] [prə’si:dʒə] 程序、过程、步骤
supervise [英] [’sju:pəvaiz] 监管、管理
grading 放码、推板（分级）
marker 排料（标记）
prevalent [英] [’prevələnt] adj. 普遍的, 盛行的, 流行的；普遍存在的

　　 Distribution销售 [英] [,distri’bju:ʃən]
The sales department consists of the head of sales (also called a merchandise person) and the sales people who work under his or her direction. （销售部由销售经理和由他领导的销售人员。）Often included on the staff is a show room girl. （常常在这个团队中还有一个陈列室女郎。）The show room girl is in charge of the show room and the models. （这个陈列室女郎主管陈列室和模特。）She maintains the line in good shape, and keeps up the book of sketches and swatches. （她使服装产品保持良好的展示形态，并保存好款式说明书和样衣。）She compiles and records all orders placed, handles special orders and trim replacements, and manages other details relating to retail stores and their orders. （她收集和记录所有的订单，处理特殊订单和整理替代品, 并管理与零售商及其订单相关的事务等。）
The designer will often begin a new season by presenting the line to the sales staff and explaining the styling and theme at a sales meeting. （在新一季产品开发的销售会议上，设计师需要向销售人员展示其设计的产品系列并对款式设计理念和作品主题进行解释。）Often the designer will join the sales staff when they are working the line with a buyer who makes many purchases or who represents a prestigious store.（通常，当一些前来采购的买家订购量比较大或者当一些著名商店的买家到来时，设计师需要参与销售人员的工作，帮助进行销售。）Sometimes the buyer will arrange an in-store promotion when a designer visits. （当设计师前去一些零售店时，买家会安排一些店内促销。）A newspaper advertisement or fashion show (called a trunk show if the merchandise shown is for the next season) will be planned to bring in more customers than usual. （通常，报纸广告或时装秀(又称商场展销，展示下一季的产品)比其他方式更能吸引顾客。）This gives the designer an opportunity to see the garments on a variety of customers. （这也使得设计师有机会接触各种类型的顾客。）
Sale staff 销售团队、销售人员
swatch [英] [swɔtʃ] 样衣
compile [英] [kəm’pail] 收集、整理、编辑
theme [英] [θi:m] 主题
represent [英] [，repri’zent]  代表, 象征, 表示，描述，作为…的代言人
prestigious [英] [pre’sti:dʒəs] adj. 受尊敬的, 有声望的, 有威信的
promotion [英] [prə’məʊʃən] n. 1. 提升2.宣传;推销3. 推广4.增进
advertisement [英] [əd’və:tismənt] 广告
bring in 引进、吸收、吸引

　　Developing a Taste Level培养品位
Buyers return to their established resources for a specific type of styling, so a designer may be successful at one house and unsuccessful at another. （为了获得一些特色产品．买家会从已建立业务关系的客户中寻找，所以一位设计师或许在一个设计公司能够成功，在另一个设计公司或许就不能成功。）For a designer to be successful, his or her natural taste must find expression. （对于一个设计师来说，要想成功就必须表现自己的艺术鉴赏品位。）A person develops a taste level by constant exposure to fine merchandise in stores, in publications and on the streets. （通过不断地到高档商店、公众出版物及街道采集信息，设计师就会逐渐提高自己的艺术鉴赏品位。）Good taste is the ability to recognize styles that will appeal to a specific segment of the market. （良好的艺术鉴赏品位是一种才能，它可以帮助设计师识别出吸引特殊细分市场的时装款式。）The beginner should try to develop a feeling for one kind of apparel, a kind he particularly enjoys creating. （初学者应该努力培养对于一种自己特别喜欢设计的服装的鉴赏感觉。）However, before the designer begins to concentrate on one area, he should gain experience in several different areas. （但是，在专注于某个服装款式设计领域之前，刚入道的设计师最好在几个不同服装款式设计领域中积累设计经验。）Fortunately, the beginner has a wide choice of areas in apparel design. （幸运的是，初学者在服装设计领域有广泛的选择。）
expression [英] [iks’preʃən] n.表示,表现,表达，表情，措辞, (言语的)表达力
exposure [英] [iks’pəuʒə] n. 暴露, 显露，揭发, 揭露，公开，陈列，展览；
appeal to [英] [ə’pi：l] 1. 向…呼吁; 向…请求;恳求2. 对…有吸引力
segment [英] [’seɡmənt] 部分
concentrate [英] [’kɔnsəntreit] 专心于; 注意; 集中; 聚精会神

　　Highlights
The designer is responsible for a range of interrelated jobs, including researching colors and fabrics, creating styles, developing a line, merchandising, pattern development and distribution.
Designers work closely with sales staff and buyers when they are working the line.
Good taste is the ability to recognize styles that will appeal to a specific segment of the market.
For Review
1. What is the first step for a designer in creating a new line?
2. How do you develop a new line?
3. Is the designer necessary in the process of pattern making?

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