国标服装术语.doc

国标服装术语Standard terminology relating to apparel注:根据国家标准GB/T 155572008。中括号里面得内容仅供参考。综合服饰 apparel and accessories服装 apparel;garments;clothes:又称为“衣服”。时装 fashion成衣 readytowear定制服装 tailor made中式服装 Chinese costume西式服装 Western costume民族服装 ethnic costume上装 tops下装 bottoms套装 suits连身装 cover all内衣 underwear外衣 outerwear男装 Young Mens wear女装 Misses wear少男服装 boys clothes少女服装 girls clothes儿童服装 childrens wear婴幼儿服装 infants wear功能性服装 functional garments职业服 work wear防护服 protective work wear运动服 sportswear:又称为“运动装”。休闲服 casual wear礼服 formal wear舞台服 stage costume:又称为“演出服”。家居服 dressing gown孕妇装 maternity dress针织服装 knitted garments机织服装 woven garments:又称为“梭织服装”。毛呢服装 woollen garments棉类服装 cotton garments麻类服装 bast garments丝绸服装 silk garments化纤类服装 syntheticmade garments毛皮服装 fur garments皮革服装 leather garments人造毛皮服装 fake fur garments人造革服装 fake leather garments牛仔服装 jeans wear防寒服 cold protective clothing棉服装 padded garments羽绒服装 down wear服装成品西服 tailored suit:又称为“西装”。中山装 Zhongshan Zhuang:又称为“中山服”。军便装 military jacket青年装 young mens jacket:又称为“五四青年学生服”。茄克衫 jacket猎装 safari jacket衬衫 shirts(男);blouses(女)中西式上衣 Chinese and Westernstyle coat中式上衣 Chinese style coat背心 vest:又称为“马甲”。文胸 brassiere连衣裙 dress旗袍裙 Qipao style skirt斜裙 Aline skirt喇叭裙 flare skirt超短裙 miniskirt:又称为“迷您裙”。褶裙 pleated skirt节裙 tiered skirt:又称为“塔裙”。筒裙 straight skirt:又称为“统裙、直裙”。西服裙 tailored skirt 又称为“西裙”西裤 tailored trousers西短裤 tailored shorts中式裤 Chinese style slack背带裤 overall马裤 riding breeches灯笼裤 knickerbockers裙裤 culottes牛仔裤 jeans连衣裤 jumpsuit喇叭裤 bellbottom trousers棉裤 padded pants羽绒裤 down pants超短裤 mini shorts雨裤 rainproof pants内裤 underpants三角裤 briefs沙滩裤 beach shorts比基尼 bikini:又称为“三点式游泳衣”。泳装 swimming wear紧身服 body fitting garments风雨衣 allweather coat风衣 trench coat雨衣 raincoat披风 cape斗篷 mantle大衣 overcoat旗袍 Qipao睡衣套 pyjamas睡袍 nightgown新娘礼服 wedding gown晚礼服 evening wear燕尾服 morning coat服装部位、部件前身 front肩缝 shoulder seam领嘴 collar notch门襟 closure里襟 under fly门襟止口 front edge门襟翻边 placket止口圆角 front cut搭门 overlap扣眼 buttonhole眼距 buttonhole spacing假眼 mock button hole滚眼 button loop扣位 button placement单排扣 single breasted双排扣 double breasted驳头 lapel平驳头 notch lapel戗驳头 peak lapel驳口 roll line串口 gorge下盘头 stand collar head袖窿 armhole:又称为“袖孔”、粤语中又称为“夹圈”。袖山 sleeve top袖口 cuff 粤语中又称为“介英”、“鸡英”衬衫袖口 shirt sleeve cuff橡筋袖口 elastic cuff罗纹袖口 rib cuff胸部 chest腰节 waist line摆缝 side seam 又称为“侧缝”、“侧骨”底边 hem前后披肩 shoulder piece前过肩 front yoke 又称为“前担干”领省 neckline dart前肩省 bust dart肋省 pocket dart前腰省 front waist dart横省 side dart肚省 fish dart前身通省 front open dart刀背缝 princess seam 又称为“公主线”后身 back总肩 across back shoulder后过肩 back yoke 又称为“后担干”背缝 center back seam背叉 vent摆叉 side vent后搭门 back overlap领窝 neck line后领省 back neck dart后肩省 back shoulder dart后腰省 back waist dart后身通省 back open dart领 collar立领 stand collar翻折领 foldover collar底领 collar stand:又称为“领座”。翻领 lapel领上口 roll line领下口 collar neckline领里口 collar stand line领外口 style line领豁口 collar notch倒挂领 Ulster collar中山服领 Zhongshan collar中式领 mandarin collar衬衫领 shirt collar两用领 convertible collar尖领 Vneck圆领 crew neck方领 square neck青果领 shawl collar燕子领 wing collar荷叶边领 ruffle collar海军领 sailor collar扎结领 tie collar圆形领口 round neckline方形领口 square necklineV形领口 Vneckline一字形领口 boat neckline鸡心领领口 sweetheart neckline袖 sleeve袖头 cuff button:缝在袖口得部件,又称为“袖卡夫”。双袖头 folding cuff袖叉 sleeve vent袖叉条 sleeve placket大袖 top sleeve小袖 under sleeve袖中缝 sleeve center line前袖缝 inseam后袖缝 elbow seam袖底缝 sleeve line衬衫袖 shirt sleeve圆袖 setin sleeve连袖 kimono sleeve:衣袖相连,有中缝得袖型。连肩袖 raglan sleeve:又称为“插肩袖”。中缝圆袖 raglan sleeve with center seam:中间有缝得圆袖,又称为“连肩袖”。喇叭袖 flare sleeve灯笼袖 puff sleeve蝙蝠袖 batwing sleeve泡泡袖 bishop sleeve花瓣袖 petal sleeve口袋 pocket插袋 vertical pocket贴袋 patch pocket开袋 slit pocket双嵌线袋 double jet pocket 又称为“双唇袋”单嵌线袋 single jet pocket 又称为“单唇袋”卡袋 card pocket手巾袋 breast pocket袋爿袋 welt pocket眼睛袋 glasses pocket里袋 inside pocket锯齿形里袋 sawtooth edge trimmed inside pocket:又称为“三角形里袋”。有盖贴袋 flapped patch pocket压爿贴袋 patch pocket with topstitched box pleat吊袋 Zhongshan Zhuang pocket:又称为“老虎袋”。风琴袋 bellow pocket暗裥袋 patch pocket with inverted pleat:袋中间活口得袋。明裥袋 patch pocket with box pleat:袋中间两边活口得袋。小部件 small parts领袢 collar tab吊袢 hanging loop肩袢 epaulet腰袢 waist tab下摆袢 bottom tab袖袢 sleeve tab脚口袢 leg opening tab线袢 French tack:用线打成得小袢。挂面 facing:装在上衣门襟、里襟得部件。又称为“贴边”。耳朵皮 flange:在前身里与挂面处拼接做里袋得一块面料。滚边 bias strip:包在衣服或者部件边沿处得条状部件。压条 band:压明线得宽滚条。腰带 waistband塔克 tuck:衣服上有规则得装饰褶。袋盖 pocket flap衬布 interlining前身衬 front interlining驳头衬 lapel interlining胸衬 chest interlining下节衬 interlining under the waist line领衬 collar interlining肩头衬 domette帮胸衬 bias strip袋角衬 pocket reinforcement patch底边衬 hem interlining袖头衬 cuff interlining挂面衬 front facing interlining腰头衬 waist band interlining袋牵布 patch stay:位于袋口处,用以增加袋口牢度得衬。牵条 tape:在止口等部位起固定作用得衬条。下装横裆 crotch:上裆下部最宽得部位。上裆 crotch depth:腰头上口至横裆间得部位,又称为“直裆”。中裆 knee:一般为裤脚口至臀围线得二分之一处得部位。烫迹线 crease press:裤装前后身得中心直线。裤脚口 leg opening裤卷脚 turnup cuff脚口折边 hem侧缝 side seam腰缝 waistband seam下裆缝 inseam小裆缝 front crotch seam前裆缝 front crotch seam后裆缝 back crotch seam腰头 waistband top腰头上口 upper side of waistband:腰头得上边沿部位。腰里 waistband lining裤(裙)腰省 waist dart:裤、裙前后身为配合人体曲线而缝合得长三角区域,省尖指向人体凸起处。裤(裙)裥 pleat:裤裙前身在裁片上预留出得宽松量,通常经熨烫后塑出裥形,作为装饰或增加活动放松量。下装部件 bottoms parts侧缝直袋 side pocket侧缝斜袋 slant pocket侧缝横袋 cross pocket表袋 watch pocket后袋 hip pocket过腰 waistband:门襟一侧腰头延伸探出部分。膝盖绸 knee kicker:装在裤装前片得里布。贴脚条 heel stay:缝在裤装后身脚口折边下沿得条料。门襟 fly facing:位于裤、裙开合处,用以锁眼或装一侧拉链得部件。里襟 fly shield:位于裤、裙开合处,用以钉钮扣或装一侧拉链得部件。里襟尖嘴 button tab at fly shield小裤底 front crotch stay:小裆部位得里布。大裆底 back crotch stay:后裆部位得里布。过桥 trouser curtain:里襟里布延长得条状部件,用以覆盖十字裆缝。雨水布 trouser curtain:遮盖腰头衬布得里布。串带 beltloop:装在腰头上,用以束腰带得小袢。袋布 pocket bag垫袋布 pocket mouth stay:袋口处垫在袋布上得条料。服装设计款式 style:服装得式样。造型 silhouette:服装得外形轮廓。结构 garment construction:服装各部件与各层材料得几何形状以及相互组合得关系。基础线 basic line:结构制图过程中使用得纵向与横向得基础线条。轮廓线 outline:构成成型服装或服装部件得外部造型得线条。结构线 construction line:服装图样上,表示服装部件裁剪、缝纫结构变化得线条。效果图 fashion drawing:为表达服装最终穿着效果得一种绘图,一般要着重体现款式、造型风格与色彩等,主要作为设计思想得艺术表现与展示宣传。款式图 working sketch:为表达款式造型及各部位加工要求而绘制得造型平面图,一般就是不涂颜色得单墨稿画。要求各部位成比例,造型表达准确,工艺特征具体。结构图 cutting illustration:用曲、直、斜、弧线等图线将服装造型分解并展开成平面裁剪方法得图,又称为裁剪图。示意图 sketch map:为表达某部件得结构组成、加工时得缝合形态、缝迹类型以及成型得外部与内部形态而制成得一种解释图,在设计、加工部门之间起沟通与衔接作用。展示图 flat patternmaking:表示服装某部位得展开示意图,通常指外部形态得示意图。分解图 detail sketch:表示服装某部位得各部件内外结构关系得示意图,通常作为缝纫加工时使用得部件示意图。服装裁剪制图上衣基本线 basic line衣长线 length line落肩线 shoulder line胸围线 bust line袖窿翘高线 upline of armhole腰节线 waist line:又称为腰围线。底边翘高线 front pitch line领口深线 neck depth line止口直线 front edge搭门直线 front overlap line撇门线 front cut line领口宽线 neck width line肩宽直线 across shoulder line前胸宽线 chest width line摆缝直线 side seam收腰线 waist line下摆直线 bottom width line摆缝撇线 side seam止口线 closing line搭门线 center front line领窝线 neck line前领宽线 neck width line肩斜线 shoulder slope line袖窿线 armhole line摆缝线 side seam line袋位线 pocket position line底边线 hemline前身中心线 center front line扣眼位线 buttonhole position胸省线 breast dart肋省线 underarm dart驳口线 roll line领深斜线 neck depth line领串口斜线 gorge line领嘴线 notch position驳头止口弧线 lapel style line门襟圆角点线 front curve point门襟圆角线 front curve前后过肩线 front or back yoke line过肩下口线 yoke under line过肩上口线 yoke roll line肩宽线 shoulder width line过肩宽线 yoke width line过肩肩斜线 yoke slope line后背中心线 center back line背宽线 back width line摆缝翘高线 side seam背缝线 back seam line开衩线 vent line背心底边弧线 vest hem袖窿斜线 raglan slope line抬裉线 armhole depth line裉缝弧线 underarm curve大襟斜线 front opening basic line大襟弧线 front opening curve腹围线 abdominal extension line袖子基本线 basic line for sleeve袖长线 length line袖山深线 biceps line袖山线 back cap depth line袖肘线 elbow line袖口翘线 sleeve lower line前袖缝直线 front seam line前偏袖直线 fold line of top sleeve袖围线 sleeve girth line袖围中线 sleeve center line袖口线 sleeve hem line前袖缝线 front seam前偏袖线 fold line袖山弧线 sleeve cap后袖缝线 back seam袖衩线 sleeve slit line后偏袖线 fold line of under sleeve小袖内撇线 elbow curve小袖深弧线 under sleeve cap curve前、后连肩袖线 raglan sleeve outline袖口缝线 sleeve end line袖头止口线 cuff bottom line袖头上口线 cuff roll line挂面止口线 front facing outside edge挂面里口线 front facing inside edge底领上口线 band roll line底领下口线 band neckline under line of band底领前宽斜线 band end line翻领上口线 collar roll line翻领外口线 collar outside line领尖线 collar point line翻领前宽斜线 collar width line帽下口线 neckline of hood帽嘴线 front line of hood帽前口线 front curve of hood帽顶线 center back line of hood下装 bottoms裤子基本线 basic line for trousers裤长线 length line横裆线 thigh line臀围线 hip line中裆线 knee line侧缝直线 side seam line前裆直线 front crotch line前裆内撇线 front crotch seam line小裆宽线 front crotch width line烫迹线 crease line前腰围线 waist line中裆围线 knee line脚口围线 bottom line侧缝弧线 side seam直袋位线 side vertical pocket position前裆弧线 front crotch curve下裆线 inseam line裥位线 pleat position line落裆线 back crotch line后翘线 upline of waist后腰缝线 back waist seam后裆宽线 curve width line of back crotch seam后裆弧线 back crotch vurve后省线 waist dart line后袋线 hip pocket position line腰头上口线 waistband roll line腰头下口线 waistband underline门襟止口线 fly edge line门襟外口线 fly facing outside edge里襟里口线 fly shield inside edge里襟外口线 fly shield outside edge裙子基本线 basic line裙长线 length line裙侧缝线 side seam line裙腰缝线 waist seam line裙裥位线 pleat position line服装工艺操作检查原辅料 material inspection验色差 colour shade inspection查疵点 inspection for defect查污渍 inspection for spot分幅宽 fabrics width grouping查衬布色泽 checking interlining查纬斜 inspection for skewness复米 roll length audit理化试验 physical and chemical test裁剪 cutting烫原辅料 wrinkle removal自然回缩 fabric relaxing排料 layout计算机裁剪 puter aided cutting服装CAM clothing puteraided manufacturing服装CAD puteraided garment design铺料 spreading划样 marking:用样板或漏划板按不同规格在原料上划出衣片裁剪线条。版样 pattern:记录服装结构图及相关技术规定(缝份、布纹方向、对位点、规格等)得纸板得统称。纸样 paper pattern:软质纸得版样。板样 pasteboard pattern:硬质纸得版样,也称为样板。布样 cloth pattern:布质得版样、立裁中产生得版样。复查划样 marker audit:复核划样结果。裁剪 cutting:按划样裁成衣片。钻眼 drilling:用电钻在裁片上做出缝制标记。又称为“扎眼”。打刀口 notching:按划样标记打上剪口。又称为“打剪口”。分片 identifying and bundling:裁片分开整理。打粉印 chalking:用粉片在裁片上做出缝制标记。编号 numbering:裁好得衣片按顺序编上号码。查裁片刀口 checking notches:检查裁片刀口质量。配零料 assigning sundries:配零部件料。钉标签 attaching label:将有顺序号得标签钉在衣片上。验片 cut piece inspection:检查裁片质量。织补 darning:修补裁片【织疵】疵点。换片 changing defective pieces:调换不符合质量得裁片。冲上下领衬 punching collar interlining:用模具冲压领子得上领与下领得衬布。冲袖头衬 punching cuff interlining缝制 sewing男毛呢服装 mens woollen garment修片 trimming pieces:修剪毛胚裁片。打线丁 making tailors tack:用异色棉纱线在裁片上做出缝制标记。剪省缝 slashing dart:毛呢服装省缝剪开。环缝 overcasting stitches:毛呢服装间开得省缝用环形针法绕缝。缉省缝 sewing darts烫省缝 pressing dart open归拔前片 blocking front piece:将平面前衣片推烫成立体衣片。缉衬省 stitching dart of interlining缉衬 stitching interlining烫衬 pressing interlining敷胸衬 attaching interlining:前衣片敷上胸衬。粘衬 pressing interfacing:用粘合机将某些部位衣片与粘合衬进行热压粘合。纳驳头 padstitching lapel:手工或机扎驳头。又称为扎驳头。敷止口牵条 taping front edge敷驳口牵条 taping lapel roll line拼袋盖里 matching flap facing做袋盖 making flap:袋盖面与里机缉缝合。翻袋盖 turning over flap做插笔袋 making an opening for pen on the flap滚袋口 binding pocket mouth:毛边袋口用滚条包光。缉袋嵌线 stitching bound pocket开袋口 cutting pocket mouth封袋口 stitching ends of pocket mouth缉转袋布 stitching pocket bag拼接挂面 stitching facing拼接耳朵皮 stitching flange敷挂面 attaching facing合止口 joining front edge修剔止口 trimming front edge扳止口 whipstitching front edge(扌寨)止口 basting front edge叠挂面 basting front facing合背缝 joining center back seam归拔后背 blocking back piece敷袖窿牵条 taping armhole敷背叉牵条 taping back vent封背叉 bartacking back vent合摆缝 joining side seam分烫摆缝 pressing open side seam扣烫底边 folding and pressing hem叠底边 basting hem叠摆缝 basting side seam倒钩袖窿 backstitching armhole合肩缝 joining shoulder seam分烫肩缝 pressing open shoulder seam叠肩缝 slipstitching shoulder seam做垫肩 making shoulder pad装垫肩 setting shoulder pad倒钩领窝 backstitching neckline拼领衬 joining collar interlining拼领里 applying interlining to collar缉领里 topstitching under collar归拔领里 blocking under collar归拔领面 blocking top collar敷领面 attaching under collar to top collar合领子 joining under collar and top collar翻领子 turning over collar做领舌 making collar band ends包底领 stitching collar band绱领子 sewing collar on and down分烫绱领缝 pressing open collar seam分烫领串口 pressing open gorge line seam叠领串口 slipstitching gorge seam包领里 turning over top collar seam allowances and catchstitching上下领缝合 attaching band to collar压烫领脚 pressing collar归拔偏袖 blocking sleeve合袖缝 joining sleeve seam分烫袖缝 pressing open sleeve seam(纟乔)袖叉 slipstitching sleeve slit叠袖里缝 matching and stitching sleeve lining seam allowance翻袖子 turning over sleeve收袖山 easing sleeve cap绱袖 setting in sleeve(纟乔)袖窿 slipstitching sleeve lining to garment lining压烫袖窿 pressing armhole滚袖窿 binding armhole(纟乔)领钩 attaching hook to collar band(纟乔)领下口 slipstitching collar to garment叠暗门襟 slipstitching facing(纟乔)底边 blind stitching hem女毛呢服装 womens woolen garment合刀背缝 stitching princess line烫刀背缝 pressing princess line定眼位 marking button position滚扣眼 bounding buttonhole开扣眼 cutting buttonhole挂面滚边 bias binding facing合领面 joining top collar做袋爿 making welt pocket做袋 making pocket绱袋 attaching pocket to garment翻小袢 turning over tab绱袖袢 attaching sleeve tab合腰带 stitching waistband and lining翻腰带 turning over waistband倒烫里子缝 pressing lining seam rolling to underside合大身面里 stitching garment and lining together翻里子 turning over lining敷里子 attaching lining to garment(纟乔)扣眼 slipstitching buttonhole衬衫 shirts and blouses热缩领面 pressing top collar for preshrinking粘领衬 fusing interlining压领角 pressing collar point夹下领 attaching collar to band扣烫过肩 folding and pressing back yoke绱过肩 setting back yoke绱明门襟 attaching facing镶嵌线 piping and binding缉明线 top stitching钩袖头 joining sleeve bottom翻袖头 turning over cuff绱袖叉条 stitching placket tape to sleeve封袖叉 top stitching close to placket绱袖头 attaching cuff to sleeve绱橡筋 attaching elastic定扣位 marking button position锁扣眼 sewing buttonhole钉扣 sewing button中式服装 Chinese costume刮浆 srnearing pasting抬裉缝剪口 notching underarm seam allowance划绗缝线 marking quilting line绗棉 quilting(纟乔)钮袢 slipstitching button loops盘花钮 making Chinese frog钉钮袢 sewing button loop钉领钩袢 attaching hook and eye镶边 making bias binding as a decorative trim西裤 trousers拔裆 blocking crotch敷袋口牵条 attaching pocket stay扣烫膝盖绸 folding and pressing knee kicker(纟乔)膝盖绸 slipstitching knee kicker