旗袍与中国传统服饰-中英互译.doc

旗袍与中国传统服饰
旗袍源自清代满族女性服饰，被誉为中国传统服饰文化的典范。它不仅在整体造型的风格方面符合中国文化和谐的特点，而且它的装饰手法也展现着浓厚的东方特质。另外，穿旗袍可以增加形体的修长感，配上中高跟鞋，更可以抬升人体的重心，将东方女性的端庄、典雅和含蓄的美展露出来。因此旗袍在中国民族服装中独领风骚，久盛而不衰。
中国男子的传统服饰比较有代表性的为长袍、马褂，长袍和马褂都是满族男子的服装，盘领、窄袖，马褂是对襟，大都有马蹄袖，长袍为大襟。也有马褂、长袍相连的两部形式，这种形式的长袍只有下半截，连扣在马褂的内下摆。长袍马褂给人的感觉是既不乏庄重，又显得洒脱和舒适。
2001年APEC会议各国元首穿着“唐装”集体亮相，掀起了一股以穿“唐装”为时尚的风潮。将“唐装”作为中式服装的通称，主要因为国外都称华人居住的地方为“唐人街”，所以“唐人”作为中式服装的通称，主要是因为国外都称华人居住的地方为“唐人街”，所以“唐人”穿的衣服自然就叫做“唐装”了。当今的“唐装”是由清代的马褂演变而来的，它的款式结构有四大特点：一是立领，上衣前中心开口，立式领型；二是连袖，即袖子和衣服整体没有接缝，以平面裁剪为主；三是对襟，也可以是斜襟；四是直角扣，也就是盘扣；另外从面料来说，则主要使用织锦缎面料等。
另外，中国不动地域和不同民族的服饰也各有特色。比如，肚兜就是关中和陕北的传统的贴身服饰，肚兜的形状就像背心的前襟，上面用布带系在脖颈上，下面两边各有一条带子系在腰间，它可以避免肚子受凉，夏天时儿童穿在外面也显得天真烂漫。在儿童穿的肚兜上尝尝绣有虎头像和“五毒”图案，给予了大人希望孩子健康成长的美好祝愿。再比如，中国少数民族彝族的服饰也很有特点。彝族妇女的头饰大致有缠头、包帕、绣花帽三类，其中红河地区妇女的头饰更是琳琅满目，以银饰为贵为美。披风是彝族男女皆备的特色服装，以动物皮毛、毛麻织品和草编织制品为原料，以青、蓝二色为主。

Cheong-Sam and Traditional Chinese Costumes
The cheong-sam has its origin in the Manchu female's costumes in the Qing Dynasty and has been regarded as the model of Chinese traditional habilatory culture. As for the reason, the cheong-sam not only accords with the characteristic of harmony within Chinese culture in terms of the style, but also shows rich oriental idiosyncrasy with regard to ornamental techniques. In addition, the cheong-sam will give more pominence to a lady's slender figure, and also help to heighten the center of gravity of human bodies together with high-heel shoes, so that civility, elegance and dignity will be fully displayd. Therefore, the cheong-sam developed its own trend, which has been long lasting.

As for the traditional clothes of Chinese men, the long gown and mandarin jacket are typical. Both of them have round necks and narrow sleeves. The mandarin jacket can be seen as a kind of Chinese-style jacket with buttons down the front, mostly with sleeves like a horse's hoof. However, the front of long gowns, with buttons on the right, is basically large. There is also a type of garment combining the long gown and the mandarin jacket, and they will only have the under-half part, buttoning in the under lap of the mandarin jacket. The long gown and mandarin jacket will give the impression of comfortableness and ease as well as sobriety.

In 2001, the presidents struck a pose on the stage in Chinese style costumes at the APEC Forum, and thus a trend of wearing Chinese style costumes came into being. The very reason why clothing with Chinese style has been labeled as Chinese -style costumes is that the place where overseas Chinese reside in has been called "Chinese town" and consequently the costumes which the Chinese wear are called Chinese style costumes. Current Chinese-style costumes were transformed from the mandarin jacket of the Qing Dynasty, and there are four major characteristics in terms of design. First, Chinese-style costumes have a stand-up collar and buttons in very middle of the front of the jacket; second, there is no seam between sleeves and jacket; third, the costumes are jackets with buttons down the front or in diagonal way; last, they have right-angled buttons. In addition, with regard to the outside material, Chinese costumes are mostly made with silk.

Moreover, the feature of clothing varies with areas and nationalities. For instance, the bellyband is the traditional close-fitting costume in Central China and north of Shanxi. The bellyband is just like the front of vest with a lace tying to the neck and it an prevent children from catching a cold. The children's wearing of bellyband will also show their naivety. Most bellybands will be embroidered with the pattern of a tiger head and the "Five Poisons", which contain a parents' nice expectation of wishing their children health. To take the costumes of the Yi Nationality as another example, they are rather distinctive with three types of women's had wears including decorating brocade round the head and a cap with an embroidered case. Especially in the area of Honghe, women's head wears are full of beautiful colors and styles. They prefer silver ornaments to show their riches and beauty. However, the manteaux can be regarded as the distinctive costumes for all people of the Yi Nationality, which are mostly made of fur, delaine, hemp and straw and whose colors are mainly cyan and blue.