中国传统服饰-英文.ppt

单击此处编辑母版标题样式,单击此处编辑母版文本样式,第二级,第三级,第四级,第五级,*,Chinese traditional costumes,1,Chinese Costumes,The Chinese costume,which has over 5,000 years history,is just like a long river.And today well present them in three parts,Han Dynasty,Tang Dynasty and Qing Dynasty.,Part1 Han Fu,Part2 Costume in,Tang Dynasty,Part3 Cheongsam,2,Han Fu,3,Hanfu,is,also known as,Hanzhuang,or,Huafu,，is the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people.The term,Hanfu,derives from the,Book of Han,which says,then many came to the Court to pay homage and were delighted at the clothing style of the Han.,（后数来朝贺，乐汉衣服制度）,4,Standard style,history,Specific style,Gallery,body,5,History,Hanfu has a history of more than three millennia,and is said to have been worn by the legendary Yellow Emperor.From the beginning of its history,Hanfu(especially in elite circles)was inseparable from silk,supposedly discovered by the Yellow Emperors consort,Leizu.,6,The Shang Dynasty developed the rudiments of Hanfu;it consisted of a yi,and,chang,worn with a,bixi,.Vivid primary colors and green were used,due to the degree of technology at the time.,7,the Western Zhou Dynasty,，,the Hanfu became looser,with the introduction of wide sleeves and jade decorations hung from the sash which served to keep the,yi,closed.The,yi,was essentially wrapped over,in a style known as,jiaoling youren,or wrapping the right side over before the left,8,In the Eastern Zhou Dynasty,，,the“deep robe”(,shenyi,深衣,)appeared a combination of tunic,（束腰外衣）,and skirt.The upper and lower halves were cut separately but sewn as a single unit.An additional change was the shaping of the left side of the costume into a corner,fastened on the chest.,9,women,10,men,11,12,Since Song and Yuan,official record used Hanfu to indicate garments Hans wear,During Liao dynasty,the emperor of Liao and Han officials wear Hanfu,and Empress and Khitan,（契丹）,officials wear their national clothing.,During Yuan dynasty,when editing History of Liao,the officials especially made an entry for Hanfu,13,The term Hanfu to describe the clothing system of Hans,was not often used within Hans,but was more often used in other ethnic groups and nations,to distinguish the Hans clothing system and their own clothing system,14,Standard style,Hat and head,dress,Informal,dress,Semi-formal,Formal,dress,Cou,r,t dress,15,Hat and headwear-garment,The style of Han Chinese clothing can be summarized as containing garment elements that are arranged in distinctive and sometimes specific ways.This may be different from the traditional garment of other ethnic groups in China,most notably the Manchu-influenced Chinese clothes,the,qipao,which is popularly assumed to be the solely recognizable style of traditional Chinese garb.A comparison of the two styles can be seen as the following provides,16,Yi(,衣,):Any open cross-collar garment,and worn by both sexes,Pao(,袍,):Any closed full-body garment,worn only by men in Hanfu,Ru(,襦,):Open cross-collar shirt,Shan(,衫,):Open cross-collar shirt or jacket that is worn over the yi,Qun(,裙,)or chang(,裳,):Skirt for women and men,Ku(,褲,):Trousers or pants,17,On top of the garments,hats(for men)or hairpieces(for women)may be worn.,One can often tell the profession or social rank of someone by what they wear on their heads.The typical types of male headwear are called,jin,(,巾,)for soft caps,mao,(,帽,)for a stiff hats and,guan,(,冠,)for formal headdress.Officials and academics have a separate set of hats for them,typically the,putou,(,幞頭,),the,wushamao,(,烏紗帽,),the,si-fang pingding jin,(,四方平定巾,;or simply,fangjin,:,方巾,)and the,Zhuangzi jin,(,莊子巾,).A typical hairpiece for women is a,ji,(,笄,)but there are more elaborate hairpieces.,18,19,20,21,Informal,dress,Types include tops(,yi,)and bottoms(divided further into pants and skirts for both genders,with terminologies,chang,or,qun,),and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times(shenyi).,22,(,中衣,)or zhongdan(,中單,):inner garments,mostly white cotton or silk,(,衫裙,):a short coat with a long skirt,Ruqun(,襦裙,):a top garment with a separate lower garment or skirt,(,褲褶,):a short coat with trousers,Zhiduo/zhishen(,直裰,/,直身,):a Ming Dynasty style robe,similar to a,zhiju shenyi,but with vents at the side and stitched sleeves(i.e.the sleeve cuff is closed save a small opening for the hand to go through),Daopao/Fusha(,道袍,/,彿裟,):Taoist/Buddhist priests full dress ceremonial robes,23,A typical set of Hanfu can consist of two or three layers,The first layer of clothing is mostly the,zhongyi,(,中衣,)which is typically the inner garment much like a Western T-shirt and pants.,The next layer is the main layer of clothing which is mostly closed at the front.,There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a,zhaoshan,which is open at the front.,24,Semi-formal,dress,A piece of Hanfu can be made semi-formal by the addition of the following appropriate items:,chang(,裳,):a pleated skirt,bixi(,蔽膝,):long front cloth panel attached from the waist belt,zhaoshan(,罩衫,):long open fronted coat,guan(,冠,)or any formal hats,25,Formal,dress,Xuanduan(,玄端,):a very,formal,dark robe;equivalent to the Western,white tie,Shenyi,(,深衣,):a long full body garment,(,曲裾,):diagonal body wrapping,(,直裾,):straight lapels,Yuanlingshan,(,圓領衫,),lanshan,(,襴衫,)or panlingpao(,盤領袍,):closed,round-collared robe;mostly used for official or academical dress,26,Court,dress,Court dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch(such as an enthronement ceremony).The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate.Court dress is similar to the,xuanduan,in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear.They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue.There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions.,27,28,Specific Style,Historically,Han Clothing has influenced many of its neighbouring cultural costumes,such as,Japanese,kimono,yukata,Korean,Hanbok,and the,Vietnamese,o t thn,.Elements of Hanfu have also been influenced by neighbouring cultural costumes,especially by the nomadic peoples to the north,and Central Asian cultures to the west by way of the Silk Road,.,29,gallery,30,31,notes,32,33,Costume in Tang Dynasty,34,1,、,The brief introduction of costume in Tang dynasty,2,、,The features of costume in Tang dynasty,3,、,How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being?,35,Brief Introduction,The clothing materials were exquisite（精美的）,The structure was natural,graceful and elegant,Adornments were splendid,Complimented by elaborate hairstyle,ornaments and face makeup,36,The general features of womens costume in Tang dynasty,：,1)topless,（上空装，袒胸装）,2,）,exposed arm,3,）,oblique(,斜的）,collar,4,）,large sleeves,5,）,long skirt dress,All of these make it deserve,the most typical open clothing,style.The clothing materials are,exquisite,the structure is,natural,graceful and elegant,and adornments are splendid.,37,This is the famous picture,簪花侍女图,showing a lady strolling in the court,The lady was wearing a leno-made upper garment,high-waist skirt and without underdress.This was called“topless”,（上空装，袒胸装）,Mindedness:the open-minded state,“,绮罗纤缕见肌肤蝉翼罗衣白玉人,”,38,39,The open clothing style and its softness and lightness make the womens costume in Tang dynasty,so unique,and distinctive,.,40,The Tang women dressed in sets of garments,and each set,a unique image in itself.,41,In general,the Tang womens dressescan beclassified into three categories:,（,1,）,The,traditional ruqun or double layered or padded short jacket that is typical of central China,42,Pattern,襦裙,(Ruqun),Ruqun,（襦裙）,is worn by women.,When its collar likes the letter“y”,we can called it“,交领襦裙,”.If its collar likes the number“11”,we can called it“,对襟襦裙,”.,When they are classified by its height of the skirt,，,we can called them“,齐腰襦裙,”Which waistband is on the waist.Or“,齐胸襦裙,”Which waistband is above the chest.,43,（,2,）,the hufu,or alien dress that came from the Silk Road;,（,3,）,Cross-Dressing(namely,girls dressed as boys),，,the full set of male garments that broke the tradition of the Confucian formalities,拘谨,礼节,.,44,After the reign of Tang Emperor Gaozong,purple was used as the garment color for officials above the third grade;light red,officials above the fifth grade;dark green.,45,officials above the sixth grade;light green,officials above the seventh grade;dark cyan,officials above the eighth grade;light cyan,officials above the ninth grade;and yellow,ordinary people and those who did not live in the palace.,46,How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being?,47,First,in Chinese history,the Tang Dynasty(AD618-907)was a period of unity and prosperity when the polity and economy were highly developed.Materialistic abundance and a relatively relaxed social atmosphere gave the Tang Dynasty an unprecedented opportunity to develop culturally,reaching its height in poetry,painting,music and dance.,48,Second,Based on the progress made in silk reeling and dyeing techniques,the variety,quality and quantity of textile materials reached an unprecedented height.,49,The structure is natural,graceful and elegant,and adornments are splendid.,50,As an important cultural element,womans costume in various forms in the Tang Dynasty well illustrates the open-mindedness and affluence during that period.,51,Third,The Tang government was tolerant,and often appreciative of religions,art and culture from the outside world.Though the forms of garments were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty(206BC-220AD)and the Sui Dynasty(581-618),they have distinctive styles by itself being influenced by cultures and arts of the Western Regions.,52,Will you accept your girlfriends/,yourselves dressing very open?,53,Cheongsam,54,Origin,Development,55,Originname,The,name cheongsam,meaning simply long dress,entered the English vocabulary from,the dialect of Chinas Guangdong Province.,In other parts of the country including Beijing,however,it is known as,qipao,which has a history behind it.,56,Qing Dynasty(1644),Manchu,Banner People(qi ren).,1645 Shunzhi,“Tifa Yifu”Policy(,剃发,易服,),the next 300 years,became adopted by the Chinese.,Survived the political turmoil of the 1911 Xinhai Revolution toppled the Qing Dynasty.,The history of,cheongsam,57,The details of cheongsam,shirt is not exposed,(,衫不露外,),the right-side lapel,lpel,of junction,dkn,decorated with buttons,(,偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰,),clothing plus clothing,(,衣外加衣,),increase waistcoat,weskt,or jacket,(,增加坎肩或马褂,),58,clothes do not get the waist down,(,衣服上下不取腰身,),Rectangular outline,(,外轮廓呈长方形,),Horseshoe-shaped sleeve cover hand,(,马蹄袖盖手,),set rolling craft decoration,(,镶滚工艺装饰,),flowerpot shoes,(,花盆鞋,),59,Frog,盘扣,Openings,衩,60,Embroidery,mbrdr,刺绣,Front of a garment,襟,61,Development,From 1914 to 1949,62,Development,From 1914 to 1949,63,19301940,，,Peak period,western-style cutting method,standard clothing of the modern Chinese women,1920s,1930s,1940s,64,Qipao(Chipau)is one of the most typical,traditional costumes for Chinese women.Also known as cheongsam,it is like a wonderful flower in the Chinese colorful fashion scene because of its particular charm.It,can display Chinese womens modesty,softness and beauty.,Today,with the development of the market economy in China,Qipao has been the attention of the whole world,and becomes the representative of Chinese beauty.,65,Soong Qingling,the wife of Sun Yat-sen,a great woman in China,Soong Mayling,She owns the most number of qipao all over the world.,66,The Mood for Love,67,As a formal costumes which represent our national culture frequently,appeares,in the,iInternational,occasions.,68,First ladys style,69,China is a historical country with splendid civilizations,in which the Chinese costume is an important part.,From the change of Chinese costumes,we can see the political change,economic development and customs evolvement through the long history.,Lets fellow the historys step,compose a new chapter for the Chinese costume culture!,70,Thanks for your attention!,71,