终于赢得“第一”的飞卓庄园_大卫·艾伦_.pdf

68Chateau Figeac-First at Last!我曾有幸见过圣埃美隆列级庄 飞卓庄园已故的老庄主蒂埃里马诺科特，他是一位非常自豪的庄主，坚信自己的酒庄与波尔多的名庄不相上下。但在1955年的圣埃美隆列级庄分级中，飞卓庄园并没有被评为A级，这也让马诺科特觉得被轻视了。I was once privileged to meet the late Thierry Manoncourt,the proprietor of the St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe Chateau Figeac.Manoncourt was a fiercely proud proprietor and held the firm belief that his estate was the equal of any in Bordeaux.He felt slighted that his property had not been given the status Premier Grand Cru Classe A in St Emilions 1955 classification.飞卓庄园文David Allen MW 编、译张恬熙David Allen MW葡萄酒大师（Master of Wine）；全球用户数量最多、影响力最大的葡萄酒信息搜索网站Wine-Searcher葡萄酒总监。从业近30年，具有丰富的葡萄酒销售、推广、培训、品鉴等方面的知识。终于赢得“第一”的专 栏COLUMNDavid专栏11 cs6.indd 6822/11/04 18:09:19更大的地产上拥有一栋别墅。19世纪，这块地产被分割了好几次。实际上，马诺科特确实把白马庄当成他家马厩的旧址！蒂埃里 马诺科特于1947年接管了飞卓庄园，这比圣埃美隆列级庄首次分级系统的发布还早8年。他无疑是一位创新者，例如，飞卓庄园是波尔多最早使用不锈钢发酵罐来酿酒的庄园之一，马诺科特也是最早采用100%新橡木桶进行陈酿的生产商之一。奇怪的是，这么长时间以来，这个酒庄一直都被忽视了。飞卓庄园晋级的其中一个阻碍就是蒂埃里马诺科特和美国强大的酒评家罗伯特帕克之间的长期不和。帕克不理解飞卓庄园葡萄酒的风格，也可能飞卓庄园的葡萄酒不是帕克喜欢的类型，所以帕克给出了令人难以置信的严厉分数。作为回应，马诺科特公开批评了帕克。这场不合最终以一场闹剧结尾，有报道称，在一次品酒会上，帕克被马诺科特的狗咬伤。但我在搜索后发现，这实际是发生在白马庄其他人的狗身上。但无论出于何种原因，他俩之间的关系显然已经完全破裂。帕克最终不再对飞卓庄园的葡萄酒进行评价。我一直认为，这两个人之间有许多不愉快是因为帕克不理解飞卓庄园的风土。飞卓庄园占地40公顷，是圣埃美隆产区内最大的酒庄。其大部分葡萄园位于圣埃美隆产区内名为格拉夫的子产区（注意不要与位于波尔多以南的格拉夫法定产区混淆）。这两个产区的名字都源于同一个因素，就是排水性非常好的砾石土壤。这片砾石土壤位于圣埃美隆和波美侯的交界处。也有一些酒庄的葡萄藤在这片土壤上生长，包括白马庄和波美侯著名的拉斐尔酒庄。由于这种土壤更加干燥并且在春天升温更快，所以更加适合品丽珠的生长。因此，飞卓庄园的葡萄酒在传统上是圣埃美隆产区内所有葡萄酒中，使用品丽珠比例最高的酒款之一，这也使其葡萄酒的风格更加接近梅多克。但罗伯特 帕克偏爱更加浓郁、成熟、高酒精度的葡萄酒，他一直认为飞卓庄园应该在其混酿中加入更多的梅洛。2013年，蒂埃里的遗孀玛丽法朗斯马诺科特聘请了备受赞誉的酿酒顾问米歇尔 罗兰作为飞卓庄园的酿酒顾问，这一举动在国际上引起了一些声音。长期以来，罗兰一直与罗伯特帕克钟爱的葡萄酒风格联系在一起。但是聘用罗兰似乎并没有让飞卓庄园的葡萄酒“帕克化”。这些葡萄酒的品质肯定与帕克喜爱的口感更加一致，但似乎还是保留了其传统的、更加优雅和有酒体结构的风格。对于飞卓庄园和已故的蒂埃里 马诺科特而言，此时酒庄被提升到圣埃美隆列级庄分级中的最高级是一个巨大的耻辱。因为现在这个分级系统十分混乱，此次晋级甚至无法巩固飞卓庄园的地位，不能让它和欧颂酒庄或邻居白马庄处于平等的位置。其实这些都是优质的葡萄酒，只不过长期以来被误解、忽视或低估。飞卓庄园的风格独特，值得被认可和尊重。就像是已故的木桐酒庄庄主菲利普 罗斯柴尔德男爵一样，马诺科特也在坚持不懈地努力，希望将酒庄提升到A级。哎，可惜蒂埃里 马诺科特并没有罗斯柴尔德男爵那么成功。当他在2010年去世时（享年92岁），飞卓庄园仍然是在B级的评级里。9月，圣埃美隆列级庄的分级重制，飞卓庄园终于被列入已故庄主在生前所坚持的级别中。但在今年圣埃美隆列级庄分级制度发生变化以及一系列其他事件的背景下，这一成就似乎显得相当空洞。蒂埃里马诺科特在生前认为，飞卓庄园应该与最初圣埃美隆列级庄A级中的白马庄园和欧颂酒庄平级，但这两大酒庄现在已经退出了该分级系统，反而削弱了圣埃美隆列级庄的价值。在蒂埃里 马诺科特去世时，圣埃美隆产区内只有两座从一开始就被评为列级庄A级的酒庄。另外两座酒庄金钟庄和柏菲庄园是在2012年的评级中提到这一级别的。这两个新来者中，金钟庄的庄主赫伯特布瓦德于2021年11月被法国的法院判定有罪，因为他在2012年的圣埃美隆列级庄评选中使用了不正当的方式，这才让他的酒庄以及与他有利益关系的酒庄得到了晋级。白马庄和欧颂酒庄引用了评选标准的内容作为退出分级系统的理由。在他们看来，游客数量和社交媒体粉丝数量等条件，不适合作为酒庄分级的指标。他们认为，与风土有关的事情才应该得到更多的重视。蒂埃里 马诺科特坚信他的酒庄应该和波尔多最好的酒庄并驾齐驱，这在很大程度上是基于飞卓庄园的历史。波尔多这一地区种植的葡萄藤可以追溯到罗马时代，在二世纪，一个名为飞卓科斯的家族在当时David专栏11 cs6.indd 6922/11/04 18:09:2070Like the late Baron Philippe de Rothschild with Mouton,Manoncourt campaigned tirelessly for it to be raised to this rank.Alas Thierry Manoncourt was not as successful as de Rothschild and when he died,aged 92,in 2010,his beloved Chateau Figeac was still only accorded the classification of Premier Grand Cru Classe B.September s reclassification of St Emilion s Grand Cru Classes Figeac was finally accorded the status that its late owner had so firmly believed it deserved.And yet the achievement seems rather hollow in the wake of other developments that have occurred relating to this years reclassification of St Emilion.It was Thierry Manoncourt s belief that Figeac should be seen to be the equal of the original two St Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classe A estates,Cheval Blanc and Ausone,however these two estates have now withdrawn from the classification system,rather undermining the value of the rating.At the time of Thierry Manoncourt s death there were only the two estates in St Emilion originally rated as Premier Grand Cru Classe A.Two more estates,Chateau Angelus and Chateau Pavie being promoted to this level in the 2012 revision of the classification.Of these two newcomers Angelus did not enter the 2022 classification after its owner Hubert de Buard was found guilty by a French court in November 2021 of having wielded undue influence in setting the standards of the 2012 classification,where his own estate and others he consulted to were promoted.Cheval Blanc and Ausone cited the criteria use for evaluating estates being assessed as a reason for leaving the classification.They felt than issues such as the volume of visiting tourists and numbers of social media followers were not suitable indicators of an estate s suitability to be classified.They believed issues relating to terroir should have been given greater weighting.Thierry Manoncourt s unshakable conviction that his chateau should be ranked alongside Bordeaux s finest was based largely upon the estate s history.Vine growing in this part of Bordeaux dates back to roman times when in the second century a family called Figeacus had owned a villa on the then much larger property.The estate was divided several times in the nineteenth century.Manoncourt actually did regard Cheval Blanc as the former site of his property s stables!Thierry Manoncourt took over the running of Chateau Figeac in 1947,eight years before the issuing of St Emilion s first classification system.He was an undoubted innovator-for example Figeac was one of the first estates in Bordeaux to utilize stainless-steel fermenters in its winemaking,he was also one of the earliest producers to adopt the use of 100%new oak for ageing.It seems strange the estate was overlooked for elevation for so long.One barrier to Figeac s advancement was certainly the long-term feud that existed between Thierry Manoncourt and the powerful American wine critic Robert Parker.Parker failed to understand or lacked a sympathy for the style of Figeac s wines and marked them unbelievably harshly.Manoncourt s response to this David专栏11 cs6.indd 7022/11/04 18:09:21was to be openly critical of Parker.There are reports the feud ended reached a head with a farcical encounter during a tasting,where Parker was supposedly bitten by Manoncourt s dog.My research suggests this attack actually occurred at Cheval Blanc and by someone else s dog,but for whatever reason the relationship had clearly broken down completely.Parker eventually stopped reviewing the wines of Chateau Figeac.I have always believed much of the ill feeling between these two men was resulted from Parker s failure to understand Chateau Figeac s terroir.At 40 hectares Figeac is the largest property in St Emilion.Most of its vineyards lie in a sub-region of St Emilion called the Graves(not to be confused with the Graves appellation which lies to the south of Bordeaux).Both the St Emilion sub-region and the appellation take their name from the same factor,their free-draining gravel soils.This patch of gravel soil which are found astride St Emilion s border with Pomerol.Other estates whose vines lie on these soils include Cheval Blanc and in Pomerol the acclaimed Chateau Lafleur.Being dryer and faster to warm up in spring,these soils are better suited to the growing of Cabernet Franc-thus Figeac has traditionally had one of the highest proportions of Cabernet Franc in its blend of any wine from St Emilion,making the style of its wines much closer to those made on the Medoc.Robert Parker whose tastes favoured richer,riper,more alcoholic styles of wine always believed Figeac should have included more Merlot in its blend than it did.There was some surprise internationally when in 2013 Marie-France Manoncourt,Thierry s widow engaged acclaimed winemaking consultant Michelle Rolland to consult at Chateau Figeac.Rolland had long been associated with making styles of wine beloved by Robert Parker.The move however does not appear to have“Parkerized”Figeac s wines.They have certainly gained a greater consistency of quality,but appear to have retained their traditional more elegant and structured style.It is a huge shame for Figeac and the memory of Thierry Manoncourt that Figeac s elevation to the highest rank of St Emilion s classification comes at a time when the classification is in such disarray that the move fails to cement its position as equal to Ausone and it s neighbour Cheval Blanc.These are superb wines that for too-long were mis-understood,overlooked and under-valued.Figeac s style is unique,it deserves recognition and respect.David专栏11 cs6.indd 7122/11/04 18:09:22购买渠道邮局订阅11185零售全国主要城市书报摊、书店、五星级酒店、酒窖及北京、上海、广州、深圳等机场书店、全国高铁火车站时代光华书店互联网精彩网 展示渠道全国主要城市五星级酒店、机场贵宾厅、头等舱及内部部分餐厅、各大餐厅、酒窖各大城市发行商联系电话北京北京市盛世金图书刊有限公司010-65034428北京国华卓越文化发展有限公司010-56546292重庆重庆市弘景文化传媒有限公司023-86359776温州温州市华鸿图书有限公司0577-86057222杭州杭州华鸿图书有限公司0571-88256007深圳深圳市宽洲文化传播有限公司0755-83537541深圳耐看文化有限公司0755-82416789广州精彩网 020-34288759电子科技书店 020-34281039邮局期刊分发科 020-38181940杂志电子版阅读欢迎来电咨询本刊发行部020-37594395网络合作伙伴DISTRIBUTION CHANNELS发行点刘琳Lin Liu MW瓶子Pan林裕森Yu-Sen LIN全世界394名葡萄酒大师（Masters of Wine)之一，首位中国籍女性MW，首位中国籍Weinakademieker(葡萄酒学者）。Hlne Durand农业工程师，酿酒师，法国国家酿酒及葡萄培育学文凭。法国知名酒类媒体的专业品鉴师及葡萄酒专家。大卫艾伦David Allen MW葡萄酒大师（Master of Wine）；全球用户数量最多、影响力最大的葡萄酒信息搜索网站Wine-Searcher的葡萄酒总监。梅康妮Corinne MuiCoVino葡萄酒学校创始人，葡萄酒及清酒资深教育家；多国葡萄酒大使；走遍世界各大葡萄酒及清酒产区的旅游达人。勃艮第扫地僧，耗时八年写了本非公开发行的白皮书瓶中的勃艮第。多家杂志特约作家，葡萄酒顾问、葡萄酒讲堂讲师。著有葡萄酒全书等。特约作者/Contributing Writers杂志顾问/Consultants佳士得拍卖行名酒部大中华区主管、国际评委。黛布拉麦格Debra Meiburg MW黛布拉麦格Debra Meiburg MW亚洲第一位葡萄酒大师，专栏作家，教育者，电视节目制作人。亚洲第一位葡萄酒大师，专栏作家，教育者，电视节目制作人。谭业明Simon Tam刘伟民Ronny Lau国际评委，爱酒的乐评人，爱音乐的酒评人，著有多本葡萄酒热销书等。Michel Bettane Thierry Desseauve法国最有影响力的葡萄酒评论家，法国葡萄酒年鉴作者。CONSULTANTS&CONTRIBUTING WRITERS目录-2211cs6.indd 922/11/04 18:39:33